Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I've got a R32 GTR and just had my HKS Twin Plate clutch rebuilt and installed.

Picked up the car last night... go to take off and the clutch's pick up point is right on the floor... like I move my foot a millimetre and can feel the gears engaging.

OK, that's shit... but I can get used to that.

The gears were much tighter but the whole transmission seemed pretty smooth right at first.

As I'm driving it home (driving it easy and not loading up the clutch at all due to the bedding in period), it seems as though as the car is getting hotter the synchro or hydraulics or something is having issues.

First it started not going into 1st gear, so I'd have to put it in 2nd and then shift straight to first... I thought, weird, as the box has never done that before.

Then it started to feel like I was running out of pedal and would have the clutch all the way in but I could tell it wasn't fully disengaging the gears and the revs would drop down due to there still being some contact.

Then on up-shifts into 4th, I could feel the gears hitting and not meshing properly.

Then this started happening in almost every up-shift and was a rough hit of the gears on the way in due to the lack of meshing and sometime would just mash and not go in.

Then the pedal got even lower and I couldn't get it out of gear without slamming it out and there was no way of getting it back into gear (tried all 6 and it was just mash mash mashing - praying I didn't do damage to the box as I was getting a little frantic at this point).

Turned it off, let it cool down, and then I could get it into gear again. Not very easily though.

But, drove it to work this morning and I had to double clutch on every down-shift to get it into gear without mashing, and by the time I got to work, even with double clutching, I could barely get it into first!

Please help...?!

I'm destroying my gearbox at this rate (going straight back to the shop tomorrow morning), but I really hope not too much damage has happened so far...?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212397-help-me/
Share on other sites

hi mate, i had the same problem with an older car i had, the friction point slowly moves closer and closer to the floor.

turned out to be my slave cylinder had a hole in the seal and wasnt holding enough pressure for the clutch to disengage.

had to rebuild the slave cylinder only cost about 30$ for the kit, and took about an hr from bonnet up to bonnet down

however it could also be the master cylinder,

or even the mechanic just didnt bleed in the clutch proply when he put it in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212397-help-me/#findComment-3752829
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...