Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys up for sale i have a used dual solenoid boost controller, getting rid of it due to upgrading to the blitz dsbc spec r version which is the newer version, by the way guys this is the older version (grey with the green writing) it is in excellent working condition, does not come with the solenoids but just the controller itself,

price- $140ono

located ion melbourne, pick up is available and can post at buyers expense

havnt got a pic of the actual boost controller but its exacely like this,

cheers guys

post-42095-1206871916_thumb.jpg

Edited by GTRBOS
Is it possible to get new solinoids??

yer ofcourse it is, you just have to search mate, maybe contact jps limited, my cousin had a dual solenoid boost controller and his solenoids stuffed up and he just jumped on ebay and asked them for solenoids and they had them but this was about 2 years ago i would say and these boost copntrollers arent cheap either but i just want a quick sale becaus eim not in need in it anymore,

cheers

why would you sell a boost controller without the solenoid? and if your upgrading you wouldn't use the old solenoid anyways... the new boost controller will come with a new matching solenoid.

sorry mate solenoids have been sold to a friend and i sold the solenoids at a good price, his solenoid was faulty so i sold him my solenoids at a price i was fairly happy with, the spec r blitz dsbc uses the same solenoid as the old ones and i already know that, so yer i got the actuall boost controoler for sale now so yer im open to offers if anyone is intersted and if it doesnt sell i will probably even keep it just incase one day my spec r boost controller stuffs up i can use this because they use the same solenoids but at the moment its up for sale

I'll give you $75 posted. Let me know either way.

Cheers

Rich

nar mate sorry, no can do at that price but make me a better offer if you like as it is in excellent working condition,

cheers mate

Sorry mate its not working without the solenoids and I have to find them and I don't know what they cost or if I can use any other solenoid with that controller.

Cheers

Rich

Sorry mate its not working without the solenoids and I have to find them and I don't know what they cost or if I can use any other solenoid with that controller.

Cheers

Rich

solenoids shouldnt be that hard to find at all, on ebay there was solenoids and they went for $79 but i just didnt need them back then but look if you want $100 they are yours and that is with postage champ, thats my last price or else you can just forget about it and goodluck finding this boost controller in this condition for the price you want it at,

cheers mate

ok guys this is serious, this boost controller is down to $70posted anywhere in oz so grab yourself a bargain or as a spare,

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...