Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well....

lol..

I am by no means a weak fella... but I couldn't get the bolt off. :D

I used the vice grips. I used them, and clamped them on there so tight, that it actually crushed the bolt head somewhat.

and yet, it still stripped the head of the bolt more and still didn't get it off.

I then filed some of the edges to try to fit a 13mm open ended spanner.

I hammered the spanner on to it, then it still stripped it and wouldn't come off.

tried the cold chisel and hammer, made a big dent in to the bolt etc and still didn't move.

:)

I drove to the nearest Kmart tyre and auto, up on a hoist, they grabbed a plumbers adjustable pipe wrench thing, clamped it on, then with a little body weight behind it, cracked the seal.

I got them to just slightly tighten it back on then drove it home.

Went to supercheap with the wifes car and got 6 plugs, and a new bolt (I told him it was a 14mm head on it and he supplied what turned out to be a 14mm thread bolt) :D

So I have done an oil change and re-used the same sump bolt.

tightened by vice grips.

bolt head is totally rounded.

but it's ok for now.

anyway, while the oil was draining (see pics as to why an oil change was needed)

I removed the coil packs and gave them a good clean with the electrical contact cleaner - see pics

replaced the plugs with new plugs - see pics

removed and cleaned the AFM with the same contact cleaner.

Blocked off the bleed hole in the stock bov via extra gasket thanks to Diet Coke can.

New oil filter, new oil and everything back on and the car feels great.

Not sayings it's faster, but it just feels smoother.

anyway, I will get a new sump plug for the next service.

What a head f**k.

Parts used:

NGK Copper plugs - BCPR6ES (this is the model that is already gapped to 0.8mm - the ones that are 1.1mm are labeled BCPR6ES-11)

OIL - Castrol Edge 10W60 (took just over 4.5L - about 4.7L - I had the oil draining for about 1 hour)

OIL Filter - Valvoline V04

Electrical Contact Cleaner (purchase from Tandy type store)

Diet coke can for gasket

post-343-1207477123_thumb.jpg

post-343-1207477170_thumb.jpg

post-343-1207477217_thumb.jpg

post-343-1207477257_thumb.jpg

post-343-1207477310_thumb.jpg

the plugs I took out were NGK iridiums. heat range 5, gap 1.1mm

the last photo is a smear of the oil that was in the car (on the left) and the new oil (on the right)

I used the gauge feeler tool to make sure that all the new plugs were infact 0.8mm - and they were.

are you relly sure you weren't tightening it lol?

anyway....at least get a new sump plug from nissan if you can't find out what thread it is. drain the oil to a clean container, put right plug in then reuuse oil

I know you've managed to get it off, but anyone else having problems try a ring spanner. I had a rounded/damaged sump plug that was waaaay too tight, the sockets kept turning whenever i put full force on the plug, but for whatever reason a ring spanner worked.

Another tip, (if there is room) shock loading the bolt most always works better than trying to budge it yourself, i.e., use a hammer or small mallet to hit the end of the spanner/ratchet, this is how I've gotten off stupidly tight bolts.

Fixxxer

agreed - the more edges touch the better

another note: leverage is key - to get mine of i used torque wrench cos its got a long handle :)

(was fkn tight)

reminds me never to lend you a torque wrench you prob have just fked it now there not mend to used for undoing bolts and i bet it is way out of calibration now .

i get mine checked every 12 months to make sure it;s spot on

reminds me never to lend you a torque wrench you prob have just fked it now there not mend to used for undoing bolts and i bet it is way out of calibration now .

i get mine checked every 12 months to make sure it;s spot on

meh - tis only a supercheap jobie so was probably never calibrated properly anyway :)

haha - thanks :D

its cos i change wheels so freaking often with motorkhana's

torgue wrench just makes it so easy so you never have to wonder

are tight enough? are they too tight?

never have trouble getting them loose again etc etc etc

next thing i need is an alloy racing jack :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drilled the rubber out on a slow speed and it didn't catch much at all. Probably only half a dozen holes was enough to shred the rubber and it dropped off easily leaving the inner sleeve behind. Will tackle that later
    • I havent bought a manual cover for the dash yet and no cluster change, won't bother me too much, I just need to get that auto box gone, manual in! I miss my manual. 🤪. We started last weekend and managed to get the box out. Planning to start putting it in this weekend and then order a single piece tail. We were super careful to take time and not damage anything. It's my first time working under the car.  With my S15 mainly worked in the bay. This time, it was a headache because of three or four bolts only. They simply didnt want to leave thei homr and the one securing the tailshaft, another above the GB, and the one securing the lipstick was a shit. Mates mate, Davo caught fire 🤣, nearly opened his chest up with a grinder 🤦🏽‍♂️ and both mates nearly had a plate from the box land and slit their head open. Fun times. We all survived. Not the easiest working with limited access on jackstands. As I'm sure we can agree these are the memories which make us love our car. For all three of us, was an awesome weekend and Sunday 3.30am before tools down was a fantastic effort. I need to upload pics, but looks like it needs to be via Url now. We used to be able to just upload pics back in the day. It's been that long! 🤪 Im currently spraying rustoleum under body, not because it's rusted. It's super clean, but just so it's protected for the next 10 years. There was a few surface rust spots. Which pretty much wiped off with a 3M scourer.  Really impressed with how well the previous owner maintained it. Bank account went down so quick! Service, then GB - managed to get a spanking new 34 genuine box from Nissan. All the rest of the conversion parts from Kudos.  Went with a Nismo short shifter. New pedals and Exedy Clutch and FW. Ordered the Prp Rear Main Retainer kit which should arrive Friday and my first engine mod part just like I did with my S15 will be the Tomei Expreme Turbo Outlet. Already on order. It'll likely sleep next to me on a pillow during the coming months. 🥰 Last build was on my JET200GT profile and on SAU and Hardtuned I had documented the build. Planning to try to do that again. Brands feel scarce now. Wish we still had ARC and Apexi parts readily available. Exhaust - need some advice on this. I had an Apexi exhaust on the S15 and loved the tone. My mate had a HKS HP Silent on his 33 and suggested I go with that to avoid drone. I can't remember hearing an RB25DET running that so will likely need to wait for a meet or something to hear it.  Not after big power, just enjoy building it, and drivability with minimal negative attention.
    • Have a chat with Ben at Moore Performance or Jesse at JS Performance.
    • Thanks both. All good advice. Reminds me of drilling through stone wall for drainage pipe 😬 I'll let you know how I get on if I still have use of my hands afterwards 😅
    • Finally got shipping number for the intake and throttle body, shipped by UPS, so "should" be in my hands sometime next week, fingers fracking crossed
×
×
  • Create New...