Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i just checked my TPS voltage to try and sort out an idling issue

I've read that it should be around 0.4v closed and 4v fully open

I stabbed the 2 wire plug that comes off the tps with a multimeter and it's reading 10.6v closed, while the car is running:blink:

With the car off it was 9.5v closed and 12.5v open

Am i taking the reading from the wrong place?

Anyone know why it's so high?

On an RB20 by the way

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212969-tps-troubleshooting/
Share on other sites

It misses at idle and fluctuates from 700-900rpm

It misses and jerks a bit when shifting quickly on boost too

edit: There were 2 plugs coming off the sensor, one with 2 wires on the side of it and another one with 3 wires coming out from the bottom of it

I only tested the one with 2 wires, im assuming its the right one because the voltage did change when i opened the throttle

Edited by r32woohoo

iv managed to adjust my tps so it was ideling at a nice level but it still peaks at around 1100-1200 sometimes and other times when i start the car after driving it wont idle properly and will cut out/stall straight away. alot of the time it will fluctuate between 600-900 and cause jerking around 3000 rpm.

im thinking of getting a new tps so i can eliminate a faulty tps and also maybe clean my throttle body too, as i have already cleaned my aac.

other suggestions on the forum is the cold start.

Im guessing, but i think the 2 wire plug is for auto trans. The three wire plug is for the ecu. The only way that it can be above 5v is if there is a wiring problem, or the voltage reg in the ecu has short circuted, which is very unlikely. Unplug the tps, and check the supply voltage, should be 5v

iv managed to adjust my tps so it was ideling at a nice level but it still peaks at around 1100-1200 sometimes and other times when i start the car after driving it wont idle properly and will cut out/stall straight away. alot of the time it will fluctuate between 600-900 and cause jerking around 3000 rpm.

im thinking of getting a new tps so i can eliminate a faulty tps and also maybe clean my throttle body too, as i have already cleaned my aac.

other suggestions on the forum is the cold start.

i got some throttle body cleaner and gave it a good clean. started my car and it idled at 1100 and within about 10 sec it bounced to 1500!. i then adjusted my tps so it droped to 1100. took it for a quick drive, to see how it goes with a clean throttle body, and wouldnt idle lower than 2500rpm! after i got going.

mind you it wasnt fluctuating when idleing, probably cause it was idling to high

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...