Jump to content
SAU Community

Best # Plate For Me  

24 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Nah cant be assed paying the dept transport $200 a year, so im going for R and S series at a solid $71 once off fee!!

yeah thats what I did on the car Darren.......'S'......re-issued plate

Bike on the other hand costs me $190 each year extra

Nah cant be assed paying the dept transport $200 a year, so im going for R and S series at a solid $71 once off fee!!

'Custom' plates are $200 odd a year, but 'Personalized' plates are a one off fee. JZS147 should fall into the category of personalized shouldn't it? :yes:

But RIS 705 gets my vote anyway.

:banana:

I just got myself RRS250 for the Stag. :banana:

Edited by RubyRS4

Custom you can have any letter and number combination you like up to 6 or 7 letters.

6 will cost you $190 per year and 7 will cost you $220 per year, for example mine is *evil34*

More cool colours available for these too. lol

With personalised you can only have the following:

a-12345 one letter and five numbers

ab-1234 two letters and 4 numbers

abc-123 three letters and three numbers

abcd-12 four letters and two numbers

abcde-1 five letters and one number

Cost is only a once off fee of $170 for these ones, the dash represents the little SA insignia that is also on your standard plates.

I couldnt get evil-34 as it was already taken so i had to settle for the custom plates.

So if you can come up with a good combo that works for you, you can go personalised

With personalised you can only have the following:

a-12345 one letter and five numbers

ab-1234 two letters and 4 numbers

abc-123 three letters and three numbers

abcd-12 four letters and two numbers

abcde-1 five letters and one number

Cost is only a once off fee of $170 for these ones, the dash represents the little SA insignia that is also on your standard plates.

In the past I've had:

UNVME-2

MYTLR-1

EVILR-1

now (for the Stag):

RRS-250

cool so if i get one letter and one number i guess that comes into the "personalized" category???? so a once of payment

No.

Must be like:

ABCDE-1

ABCD-12

ABC-123

AB-1234

A-12345

for it to be personalised. Otherwise its a custom for something like A-1.

:rant:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...