Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm gonna be getting new HKS cams put in soon along with HKS valve springs and retainers. Is there anything that i should do while the head is off? maybe solid lifters? or changing gaskets? Im aiming for around 350 awkw.. any help is appreciated. Thanks

btw this is on a 1990 R32 gtr thanks~!

If the head is off its probably worth getting it chemically cleaned in a bath just to get rid of all the carbon build up, its pretty cheap anyway. Depends how far you wanna go with modifying the head and the specs of the cams your putting in i suppose. Obviously a new head gasket is needed.

I'm kind of in a similar boat to you at the moment, changing my cams in a couple of weeks.

yer matie gtr's are a solid system, cam directly on to bucket, onto shim onto valve stem.

You could look at an oil restrictor which is put into the block to reduct the amount of oil pushed up into the head its a 5 minute job.

I have seen 3 different head in the past few weeks and all the valve guides were worn. If the valve are out you could do some porting but dont ask me how as i stuffed a head by taking to much out :-) well documented but did get the second one right

exhaust valve guides are probably flogged out and will need replacing.

solid lifters...GTR...lol

Thanks for the info, but could u elaborate on the "solid lifter...GTR ... lol"

Im not sure what thats meant to mean lol - I read that gtrs should only change lifters if the lift is 10.25mm or above? the cams are 10.2 lift, so i wouldnt need to change the lifters would i?

Also are there other gaskets that i should change? a workshop recommended that i change rocker cover gaskets too..

gtrs are a solid lifter type system mate so dont worry about them.

10.2 mm lift will be an issue though i believe you will need to machine the head where the cam lobes rotate i think that 10.2 will touch.

Also i you may need valve springs to match the 10.2mm lift again not sure if the standard springs will cope with that lift.

think you better talk to a workshop who has done this before as you will need to check valve clearence and this can be a difficult job at the best of times.

gtrs are a solid lifter type system mate so dont worry about them.

10.2 mm lift will be an issue though i believe you will need to machine the head where the cam lobes rotate i think that 10.2 will touch.

Also i you may need valve springs to match the 10.2mm lift again not sure if the standard springs will cope with that lift.

think you better talk to a workshop who has done this before as you will need to check valve clearence and this can be a difficult job at the best of times.

The person i got the cams off told me that they are straight fit cams, no modification required. I think i mentioned that i got valve springs, not sure if i did, but yea i got sum :P and i spoke to a workshop about it, they said a few shims will have to be swapped around and some bought, but that wont be too much trouble.. Just wanna make sure that i dont have to take the head off again.. So what gaskets should be changed will the head is off? obviously the head gasket, but any others?

The person i got the cams off told me that they are straight fit cams, no modification required. I think i mentioned that i got valve springs, not sure if i did, but yea i got sum >_< and i spoke to a workshop about it, they said a few shims will have to be swapped around and some bought, but that wont be too much trouble.. Just wanna make sure that i dont have to take the head off again.. So what gaskets should be changed will the head is off? obviously the head gasket, but any others?

you got had.

the only bolt in cams i can think of that require nothing else to be done is pon cams

Edited by rb26s13

hrm... does anyone know how much the standard nissan valve guides should cost? i gave them a call and they quoted me $47.45 EACH... times 24, thats $1138.80... which is ridiculous when tomei valve guides on ebay are only $525 + postage..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...