Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im gonna ask a big favour here...

Would any1 with a 34gtt or series 2 r33 with rb25DET neo engines be willing to let me borrow their coil packs to see if it is my coil packs that are causing me dramas?

can do it at your place or mine... alcoholic reward perhaps?

Thanks in advance

Steve

Edited by RusH_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213415-r34-and-r33-series-2-owners/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i have gtt

since i lost my job and have nothing better to do than surfing will be hapy to help u out,

since im new to skylines will be happy to ask few q.

cheers

drop pm if interested

P.S. i hope it want do anything wroong with my engine

Great that your helping him out Steve...But don't worry, you can't hurt your coilpacks by doing a transfer. If you lived near me (sunshine coast) I would be happy to do the work for free on the weekend.. installed probably 4 or 5 sets now on 33's and 34's, turbo's and non turbo's.

So let me know if you need any advice/help as I am more than happy to assist.

have a great day.

Chris

i have gtt

since i lost my job and have nothing better to do than surfing will be hapy to help u out,

since im new to skylines will be happy to ask few q.

cheers

drop pm if interested

P.S. i hope it want do anything wroong with my engine

Thank you very much, ill post up shortly and/or pm you if i still need to do a check

Great that your helping him out Steve...But don't worry, you can't hurt your coilpacks by doing a transfer. If you lived near me (sunshine coast) I would be happy to do the work for free on the weekend.. installed probably 4 or 5 sets now on 33's and 34's, turbo's and non turbo's.

So let me know if you need any advice/help as I am more than happy to assist.

have a great day.

Chris

Cheers chris, if i have any questions ill be sure to hit u up, and yeh i dont live very near the sunshine coast, way south as a matter of fact lol.

hey mate i have a full set of R34 GT-T coil packs let me know if u need them your welcome to try them out

Ah sweet thanks Vish, once i get a diagnostic done ill let you know if i still need them :laugh:

Edited by RusH_

Mate, it's your coil packs...if it's throwing up the error code and running like shit don't go through the pain of changing them over to find it is them (which you already knew), then having to replace them with splitfires as well.

Just get the splitfires and be happy :laugh:

Mate, it's your coil packs...if it's throwing up the error code and running like shit don't go through the pain of changing them over to find it is them (which you already knew), then having to replace them with splitfires as well.

Just get the splitfires and be happy :laugh:

What error code might that be Dan?

i had the probs your having the stock coil packs start to break im unsure of error codes but ur free to try them out whenever you want bud .. i wouldnt waste too much money finding the faults get a multi meter and test the coils yourself save some $$ in the end too

Pm me whenever you want em bud :P more then happy to help out

would u believe im eatin kfc as i read this topic? lol

thanks vish, see u then,

also thanks for that document dan, only without sounding too dumb, its a tad confusing, at any rate ill test out these coil packs and see if it solves my issue

It may read a bit intense but basically, turn the car to On (don't start)...short out the two consult pins for 1 sec (check engine light will go out)...count the flashes of the check engine light....that's it.

You only need a 10$ multimeter to test the condition of your coilpacks

Bah-barp, wrong! You can't tell with R34 ones just by using a multimeter, they pretty much fail under operating temp, and the have an isolated firing circuit inside which will not tell you anything by measuring resistance.

Almost all R34's have the packs shit themselves, just replace them and avoid the agony and time looking into a problem that is well know and can't be fixed by silicone, tape, araldite or gypsy tears!

can anyone tell me where to get spitfire coil packs from, i have a problem with ine, and cant be f**ked waiting 2 weeks plus from nengun

www.perfectrun.com.au were quick with my ones

I may even suggest Slide, make sure as hell he has them in stock down the GC though or it could be a Nengun + billion year wait

can anyone tell me where to get spitfire coil packs from, i have a problem with ine, and cant be f**ked waiting 2 weeks plus from nengun

Can refer you to a supplier in brissy... he should have it in his garage.. Pm me for details if keen..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...