Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Zane put one onto his stock GTS series 2. He is very happy with the bar & plate 600x300x 60mm one. On his stock car his dyno went from 145 kw cold & 123kw hot to a consistant 165kw hot and cold. If I was to own a GTS again it would be my first mod. FYI I think it was about $600 to get installed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2138-hybrid-intercooler/#findComment-39580
Share on other sites

Its the guy I used on my original GTS-T. His business name in Mobile Turbo Service, Dennis is the guy, 0415100345 (Tell him the white skyline guys told you to call). He is mobile but lives down Cabramatta way. You drop the car off on Friday and pick it up on Monday. Zane and I have both had it done and have had no issues. You do need to supply your own blow off valve if you dont want to use the standard one. Both times we just had the steel piping painted, he may do stainless polished but you will have to ask.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2138-hybrid-intercooler/#findComment-39593
Share on other sites

Cheers guys,

The core is 600 x 300 x 76, and with full piping kit the cost is just under $1,600.

OzGTR97, does the $600 you said include pipework or was that just an install cost? I would have thought that if you provide the piping kit it shouldn't take more than a day to install??? (ie around the $300 - $400 mark).....

Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2138-hybrid-intercooler/#findComment-39634
Share on other sites

My Hybrid Intercooler (bar and plate) is 600x300x76 and cost me $850 (new). The finish is excellent and so far the cooling capabilities are impressive.

Dennis from Oz's post above did the install for $650. This included all pipes, silicon connecting hoses, clamps, painting and fitting. Dropped the car in on friday night and picked it up on sunday arvo.

The setup included removing the factory crossover inlet piping and custom making a new pipe that bends 180 degrees from the plenum and drops to the front driver's corner. This cuts out a few feet of piping and reduces potential lag. I also had Dennis refit the factory BOV onto this pipe so the whole setup passes EPA inspection and keeps most ignorant cops happy. The piping is even sprayed grey so it matches the colour of the plenum.

With this FMIC setup, a full 3" exhaust and pod filter, the car makes a rock steady 163rwkw any day of the year. The test will come when I raise the boost and start pumping hotter air through the core. I don't expect any problems as so far the FMIC stays icy cold.

Z.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2138-hybrid-intercooler/#findComment-39809
Share on other sites

If you supply all the parts then I would hope no-one would charge more than $300 to install.

Bear in mind that the front bar will need to be trimmed back to allow the cooler to fit which can be a tricky job for a tight fit.

If your good with tools and have the time I see no reason why you couldn't do it yourself. Remember, $300 in your pocket is $300 more to spend on going faster.:(

Z.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2138-hybrid-intercooler/#findComment-39936
Share on other sites

Yeah fit it yourself all that's needed is that you have to bend a few metal brackets in a vice to secure the cooler to the car, mine has a GTR bodykit so I didn't have to cut or even remove the front bar to install. I bought stainless mandrel bends cut them to size, taped them together and gave them to an engineering shop to be welded up, buy some rubber or silicone hose and clamps and that's it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2138-hybrid-intercooler/#findComment-40289
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...