Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Firstly, I'm the first to admit I have almost zero knowledge in this area... so please keep that in mind. I had a jap twin in my GTR (ORC 709D), but after pulling it out, we found hairline cracks in the flywheel (not cool), I haven't owned the car that long so I can't tell you about the history of the clutch and it's usage.

Anyway, I'm going to go a Jim Berry "full monty"... basically, I'm trying to work out what flywheel to use. He recommended a stock one, but most people seem to highly recommend a lightened flywheel. He said he can source an aftermarket one for $600, but I don't think it was lightened. Can anyone set me straight on what I should be doing/buying? I will try to buy a 2nd hand stock item if they are good enough as I imagine it's cheaper, but I'm also happy to pay the money for a new one if it's recommended? Or can I buy a lightened one? Blah, i'm confused!

Thanks,

Tommo.

Edited by TommO

There are good points and bad points about lighter flywheels.

The lighter they are the quicker your car will seem to go through the rev range.But the revs drop quicker when you change gear.Some people even opt for heavier ones(drag and drift) as the momentum of a heavy flywheel means the revs wont drop as quick.

The main difference IMO is what the flywheel is made from.The stock one will be fine as long as it has not been machined too thin.

Im looking to get a 5.5kg chromolly flywheel in the next week or two.

On a side note the HKS Cyber Evo uses a stock flywheel.

Thanks for the comments so far :D

I found hairline cracks in my flywheel (it does get a lot of abuse). I went to billet steel instead of cast iron to make sure I never have a problem

Was your flywheel the stock one? Which one did you go for? Lightened or not?

Cheers!!

Tommo.

yeah mate it was the standard cast one. new one is lighter than stock but solid not cast. remembering it's not exactly for street use, but after seeing what happened to ben's one I didn't want to take a chance with my feet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...