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Hey guys, I'm from Japan but I'm American so when I go to search for specific things like "5-lug swap" they dont' come up, I think because you guys always say 5 stud? Heck I dunno I'm sorry, but here goes..

I want to change out the 4-lug on this Cefiro that I own. I noticed in the interchangable parts section it says that you can use R32, S14, Z32 hubs to do the swap. So here is my question, is it only the HUB part, or can you change out the spindles and everything. I know that I would have to change to say S14 suspension with S14 hubs, but how exactly do I go about changing the hubs on the car? If I ask a Japanese person they say "aftermarket only" basically because Japanese people don't do things "cheap" like that. I can get my hands on S14 spindle assemblies complete with the brakes and all, and then for the rear I can get an R32 and the e-brake cable to match the brakes. So if anyone knows exactly how to complete this swap PLEASE inform me.

The second thing I have a question about is that weak RB20. Again, RB25's are a dime a dozen around here since many of the family-four door Nissans run them. So would it be worth it to swap to an RB25 and use the RB20 transmission and get myself close to 400, or should I stick with the RB20 and rebuild it with a head gasket, bigger turbo, Power FC, the usual. If I am going to swap to the RB25 what exactly would I need to do? Since the junkyard down the road has 5 RB25 cars I can get complete swaps with Harnesses, ECU's, MAF's anything. However, at the present time they are all automatic cars.

Third, does anyone have in dash TV/DVD players? I am looking at purchasing one from the US because they are only $280 right now, but I don't know if the flip out will hit the dash or not. I was thinking I should try to stick to the indash screen, but they cost three times as much money.

I guess that's it for now, if anyone out there can help me I would greatly appriciate it.

-Donnie

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On the front you need to use the S14 complete assembly (spindle aka hub carrier aka upright). The cefiro lower control arm won't fit, and the S14 lower control arm increases your track/negative camber. You can either use the S14 control arm if you want, or use the balljoints from the S14 control arms in your A31 control arms.

On the rear, it is as simple as removing just the hub/bearing part and swapping for a 5 stud version. The e-brake on the cefiro is the same as the skyline. Though you will have to cut and/or bend the backing plate to allow larger discs to fit, so it may just be easier to swap out the whole complete rear hub assembly (upright/backing plate/etc).

If you upgrade the brakes remember to upgrade the brake master cylinder, the R32 GTST is a good choice.

As for the RB25, if they are cheap then it would definitely be worth dropping it and the gearbox into your cefiro. The RB20 gearbox will work with the 25, but the Rb25 gearbox is stronger. Have to do a few things like shorten the tailshaft etc.

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that daisu knows his cefiros i must say. i went s14 front control arms and hub carriers and removed the whole rear cefiro sub frame and installed a r32 one when going 5 stud, easy job. as for the engine question i would definitely go rb25, work out way cheaper once you way up rebuilding the rd20 depending how much work you can do yourself.

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On the rear there are alot of options, if you can access a complete assembled sub frame it is pretty simple to swap the whole thing. Just a matter of undoing the tailshaft, hydraulic brake line, handbrake cables and the bottom bolt on the rear strut. Subframe is held in with 4 bolts. Though depending on whats available and prices, all you really need is the bearing/5stud hub, and the calipers/rotors. Only difference is the skylines run a different bolt pattern between the diff and axles(driveshafts)

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definitly an rb25 is the way to go i must agree, did the conversion myself, i used the rb20 accessories(power steer pump, alternator, a/c compressor) but when fitting the rb20 power steer pump i had to use the rb20 pump bracket an cant help too much on the wiring into the body control module wiring coz i didnt do the work on that bit, also use your rb20 engine mounts they bolt right up, swap coolant temp sensor over so temp gauge on your dash reads correctly same with oil pressure switch

thats all i can think of thats important at the moment but if you need any specific help im sure i can help

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Thanks for all the feedback guys! I am looking into the RB25 as we speak. Although, I have not checked this site in a few days, I did pick up some 300ZX 5-lug stuff, only to find out that it doesn't work on the front. *SIGH* Yeah, I hate to say that I hate this Cefiro more and more everyday. Guess I have some 300ZX stuff up for sale, haha.

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE!! So I got the front S14 5-stud as you guys told me and I started working on that today. I got it all bolted up and back together to bleed the brakes (I ran out of time as the shop where I was working closed at 6) So I went to bleed the brakes and found that the pedal just went to the floor everytime. Long story short I couldn't get the Z32 brakes to work. Then I had to clean up. So here is my new question..

The Cefiro uses a hose for the brake line from the "firewall/engine bay wall" all the way to the caliper itself. The S14 uses half the hose, and then a metal line, which is smaller in diameter. So in my quick goat thinking I was wondering if I swapped to the metal line I would have enough pressure to power the front brakes. I did not pick up a GTST master cylinder yet, as I am pretty much retarded and time constrained.

Cliffs Notes:

Z32 brakes didn't work, want to know if I switch to the half metal/half hose lines from the S14 if I will have enough pressure to at least get function until I get the GTST master cylinder

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when i did this i bolted the cefiro front brake line straight into the is 14 front brake, i had to get the angle grinder out and cut the bolt about 10mm which bolted the brake line into the caliper so it completely seals against the s14 brake, soounds a bit rough , but this is probably why you can not get your brake lines to seal, apart from that, just make sure you have enoough brake fluid in the resivour. good luck. and bleed the brake furtherest away from the brake booster first including the rears. i think the 32 rb26 i just installed in my cefiro is tired, is there any going cheap over there?

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More bad news :nyaanyaa::( :(

My idea to change the lines didn't work, basically it was the same problem. So then I took apart the master cylinder and found that the front side was not pushing any fluid out of the resevoir. So it's a Sunday, and it's a holiday here in Japan, somehow I found a GT-R master cylinder. While I was waiting for that to show up to the shop, I decided to change the rear hubs since it was "so simple" Yea, not even close me for. I think the car Gods hate me. The rear calipers were too small to fit over the rotors that I had, so I figured I had to switch to the Z32 rear brakes I had, only to find out the rear brake lines are not long enough to reach. So then I ran out of time and didn't get to check the GT-R cylinder...

I guess it's good that I got the 5-stud part completed, but now I need working brakes.

I have not seen any cheap RB26's lately, sorry

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