Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Used Tarox Brakes ?

robbieraver
 Share

Recommended Posts

robbieraver Rising Star

robbieraver

Posted
Posted

Im about to try out a set of fronts for a 32GTR, they are made in italy. the kit comes with caliper, rotor, bracket, braided lines and pads of my choice of race street or semi, the pads are made by pagid.

i will be using a 350mm by 30mm rotor with a 10 piston caliper under a 17inch rim.

just want to know who has used these brakes and what they thought of them compared to others, eg AP or Brembo or .......

post-34794-1209460645_thumb.jpg

post-34794-1209460761_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216978-anyone-used-tarox-brakes/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Well if you look at the 10 piston caliper...

The main reason you run more pistons is to ensure even pad wear and pressure reducing hot spots on the pad and rotor. So the fact that the 10 piston caliper uses a square pad with a straight row of pistons rather then curved on a radius means that you dont get the benefit of running a narrower pad which curves with the rotor, and has pistons that are larger for the trailing part of the pad and smaller for the leading part of the pad. A narrower pad like most 6 pot calipers means you get to run a shallwer rotor (the heavy bit) and a larger hat (the lighter bit) so for a given rotor diameter the assembly is lighter.

If you look at ther crazy 10/12 piston calipers from the likes of Alcon that are/were used in Motorsport you can see that the piston size is dependent on the rotor direction through the caliper and the pad shape. The Tarox-10 is symmetrical front to rear with its largest piston in the middle, which is a generic solution to clocking the caliper to suit cars with leading caliper positions (Skylines) and trailing positions (Porsche/WRX etc) By that i mean look at the passenger side of the car and see of the caliper is on the right hand side of the wheel (Porsche) or left (Skyline)

So hope that quick fire response makes sense. If you look at the pad shape of a CP5555 AP 6 piston caliper and compare it to an F50 Brembo caliper pad you will get what i mean about pad shape and curvature.

I think the Tarox appeals to the "WOW, 10 piston" it must be good. I could easily be wrong, but looking at multi piston calipers from the major makers used in motorsport...thats where i am getting most of my thinking

robbieraver Rising Star

robbieraver

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Well if you look at the 10 piston caliper...

The main reason you run more pistons is to ensure even pad wear and pressure reducing hot spots on the pad and rotor. So the fact that the 10 piston caliper uses a square pad with a straight row of pistons rather then curved on a radius means that you dont get the benefit of running a narrower pad which curves with the rotor, and has pistons that are larger for the trailing part of the pad and smaller for the leading part of the pad. A narrower pad like most 6 pot calipers means you get to run a shallwer rotor (the heavy bit) and a larger hat (the lighter bit) so for a given rotor diameter the assembly is lighter.

If you look at ther crazy 10/12 piston calipers from the likes of Alcon that are/were used in Motorsport you can see that the piston size is dependent on the rotor direction through the caliper and the pad shape. The Tarox-10 is symmetrical front to rear with its largest piston in the middle, which is a generic solution to clocking the caliper to suit cars with leading caliper positions (Skylines) and trailing positions (Porsche/WRX etc) By that i mean look at the passenger side of the car and see of the caliper is on the right hand side of the wheel (Porsche) or left (Skyline)

So hope that quick fire response makes sense. If you look at the pad shape of a CP5555 AP 6 piston caliper and compare it to an F50 Brembo caliper pad you will get what i mean about pad shape and curvature.

I think the Tarox appeals to the "WOW, 10 piston" it must be good. I could easily be wrong, but looking at multi piston calipers from the major makers used in motorsport...thats where i am getting most of my thinking

interesting, but i was after some real time feed back but you have brought up some good topics, i would like to try these out as firstly work will be fitting the bill and secondly every one seems to have the ap/alcon/brembo package, these brakes ofcourse are the best, i want to try something a little different, if they dont work out, then il go ap/alcon/brembo

im not using the torox 10 in the pic, those two pics are just for show and a bit of wow :D but a totaly different one with the curved caliper and larger piston leading.

by i means keep it coming... :P

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted

I have used some tarox gear on my 1970 mini cooper s race car... Brings it to a dead stop really well... Then again the car weighs about 500kgs...

Other advantage of having multipiston calipers is that it moves the clamping force closer to the edge of the disc, therefore has more leverage for stopping

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
interesting, but i was after some real time feed back but you have brought up some good topics, i would like to try these out as firstly work will be fitting the bill and secondly every one seems to have the ap/alcon/brembo package, these brakes ofcourse are the best, i want to try something a little different, if they dont work out, then il go ap/alcon/brembo

im not using the torox 10 in the pic, those two pics are just for show and a bit of wow :) but a totaly different one with the curved caliper and larger piston leading.

by i means keep it coming... :D

Sorry, lol like most of my advice i dont have any personal experience with gear, just stuff i have read and thought about when i look at gear.

On the bright side, fact is you will be running a big rotor, plenty of pad, no doubt a sporting compound with new brake lines that come with the caliper. Then you bleed new fluid through with the install so at the end of it you will have a setup that bo doubt you will be happy with.

Half the time the details is just details, you cant teall the difference

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manur33
      Rb25det coil loom wire identification

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...