Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im about to try out a set of fronts for a 32GTR, they are made in italy. the kit comes with caliper, rotor, bracket, braided lines and pads of my choice of race street or semi, the pads are made by pagid.

i will be using a 350mm by 30mm rotor with a 10 piston caliper under a 17inch rim.

just want to know who has used these brakes and what they thought of them compared to others, eg AP or Brembo or .......

post-34794-1209460645_thumb.jpg

post-34794-1209460761_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216978-anyone-used-tarox-brakes/
Share on other sites

Well if you look at the 10 piston caliper...

The main reason you run more pistons is to ensure even pad wear and pressure reducing hot spots on the pad and rotor. So the fact that the 10 piston caliper uses a square pad with a straight row of pistons rather then curved on a radius means that you dont get the benefit of running a narrower pad which curves with the rotor, and has pistons that are larger for the trailing part of the pad and smaller for the leading part of the pad. A narrower pad like most 6 pot calipers means you get to run a shallwer rotor (the heavy bit) and a larger hat (the lighter bit) so for a given rotor diameter the assembly is lighter.

If you look at ther crazy 10/12 piston calipers from the likes of Alcon that are/were used in Motorsport you can see that the piston size is dependent on the rotor direction through the caliper and the pad shape. The Tarox-10 is symmetrical front to rear with its largest piston in the middle, which is a generic solution to clocking the caliper to suit cars with leading caliper positions (Skylines) and trailing positions (Porsche/WRX etc) By that i mean look at the passenger side of the car and see of the caliper is on the right hand side of the wheel (Porsche) or left (Skyline)

So hope that quick fire response makes sense. If you look at the pad shape of a CP5555 AP 6 piston caliper and compare it to an F50 Brembo caliper pad you will get what i mean about pad shape and curvature.

I think the Tarox appeals to the "WOW, 10 piston" it must be good. I could easily be wrong, but looking at multi piston calipers from the major makers used in motorsport...thats where i am getting most of my thinking

Well if you look at the 10 piston caliper...

The main reason you run more pistons is to ensure even pad wear and pressure reducing hot spots on the pad and rotor. So the fact that the 10 piston caliper uses a square pad with a straight row of pistons rather then curved on a radius means that you dont get the benefit of running a narrower pad which curves with the rotor, and has pistons that are larger for the trailing part of the pad and smaller for the leading part of the pad. A narrower pad like most 6 pot calipers means you get to run a shallwer rotor (the heavy bit) and a larger hat (the lighter bit) so for a given rotor diameter the assembly is lighter.

If you look at ther crazy 10/12 piston calipers from the likes of Alcon that are/were used in Motorsport you can see that the piston size is dependent on the rotor direction through the caliper and the pad shape. The Tarox-10 is symmetrical front to rear with its largest piston in the middle, which is a generic solution to clocking the caliper to suit cars with leading caliper positions (Skylines) and trailing positions (Porsche/WRX etc) By that i mean look at the passenger side of the car and see of the caliper is on the right hand side of the wheel (Porsche) or left (Skyline)

So hope that quick fire response makes sense. If you look at the pad shape of a CP5555 AP 6 piston caliper and compare it to an F50 Brembo caliper pad you will get what i mean about pad shape and curvature.

I think the Tarox appeals to the "WOW, 10 piston" it must be good. I could easily be wrong, but looking at multi piston calipers from the major makers used in motorsport...thats where i am getting most of my thinking

interesting, but i was after some real time feed back but you have brought up some good topics, i would like to try these out as firstly work will be fitting the bill and secondly every one seems to have the ap/alcon/brembo package, these brakes ofcourse are the best, i want to try something a little different, if they dont work out, then il go ap/alcon/brembo

im not using the torox 10 in the pic, those two pics are just for show and a bit of wow :D but a totaly different one with the curved caliper and larger piston leading.

by i means keep it coming... :P

I have used some tarox gear on my 1970 mini cooper s race car... Brings it to a dead stop really well... Then again the car weighs about 500kgs...

Other advantage of having multipiston calipers is that it moves the clamping force closer to the edge of the disc, therefore has more leverage for stopping

interesting, but i was after some real time feed back but you have brought up some good topics, i would like to try these out as firstly work will be fitting the bill and secondly every one seems to have the ap/alcon/brembo package, these brakes ofcourse are the best, i want to try something a little different, if they dont work out, then il go ap/alcon/brembo

im not using the torox 10 in the pic, those two pics are just for show and a bit of wow :) but a totaly different one with the curved caliper and larger piston leading.

by i means keep it coming... :D

Sorry, lol like most of my advice i dont have any personal experience with gear, just stuff i have read and thought about when i look at gear.

On the bright side, fact is you will be running a big rotor, plenty of pad, no doubt a sporting compound with new brake lines that come with the caliper. Then you bleed new fluid through with the install so at the end of it you will have a setup that bo doubt you will be happy with.

Half the time the details is just details, you cant teall the difference

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...