Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently got done for speeding along wanneroo road where a stretch of it drops from the normal 70 down to 60 (which I didn't know... thought all of wanneroo road was 70!).

I got pinged by a cop with a handheld laser doing 82km/h, and he only allowed a 2km margin of error bringing it down to 80km/h shafting me with a $300 fine and 3 demerit points. I know that multanovas must allow for a 3km margin of error, but the cop was being uncooperative and obviously wanted to get his quota up and put me in the 20-29km bracket rather than the 10-19km/h bracket which would have been less money and points.

Now my question is what is the margin of error police have to allow for HANDHELD speeding cameras? I've been searching on the net but can only find the margin for multanovas. A link to the source would be helpful.

I have no problems with paying a speeding fine if I get caught, but I do have a problem when I think the cop is breaking the law to penalize me more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217331-margin-of-error-for-handheld-lasers/
Share on other sites

yeh and 2+2 = 6.3

I thought it was 2+2 = 100

Darn... looks like I need to retake my math class again :D

& which section of wanneroo is this on?

I know that the section where I travel alot on (the section near along dogswamp) there is a slight hill going up & they like to put their speed cams there. Was working along that road once & notice tons of cars getting flashed >_>"

Edited by Mayuri Krab

im pretty sure its 2km error as lasers are more accurate then mutinovas. shoulda said it was the car infront/behind, i got away from that excuse before which was darn lucky on wanneroo aswell just after morley dr. intersection. did 40km+ on tonkin hw and had 7 points taken off with 1k fine. since then ive bought myself a radar detector. they work good but only if your doing less than 90kms in order to stop in time.

Gazza is right with the 10% speedo calibration... they only have to make their speedos accurate within a 10% margin. You never know, you might have a speedo that is dead on but with 10% margin for error up their sleeve it's doubtfull.

The lasers and multanovas do not have any margin of error. Each unit (in a perfect world) is tested with a tuning fork and calibrated. There will be actually variences due to the angle the laser is fired from (eg two lanes of traffic, cars side by side... car closer will be slightly different to the car further away)... the good thing there is that cops kow this and they will usually (as they have in this case) removed a little for angular margin of error. Unfortunately with multanova's, as they are a basically an automatic letter in the mail after a quick photo review, there isn't anyone who will down grade your speed.

What this means is that you could be thinking you are doing the right thing on the freeway, putting along at 100km/h on your speedo and then get flashed actuall doing 110km/h... on a long weekend thats going to cost you $150 and 4 points thanks very much Mr Car Manufacturer.

Flip side is you could be over on your speedo and actually under the speed limit... fingers crossed all of our speedos are this way inclined.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...