Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive owned it now for two weeks and im already coping grief.

it has an inlet manifold leak, which is causing it to run lean, but here is the catch...

I think that it is over fueling, as it has backfired a few times under load (not even full throttle) and it died on the way to work this morning. it wouldnt fire up again, so i left it for about 5 minutes and it fired up again. But i virtually have to drive it like there is and egg between my foot and the throttle because when you try to accelerate it just pops and farts and carries on.

it has an apexi power fc computer, would it be this trying to compensate for the lean conditions?

any advice would be fantastic!

thanks in advance guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217362-problem-with-the-gtr/
Share on other sites

I would say that if there is a leak, the pressure or boost from the turbo is released at the point of the leak. It may also be sucking air in, but the majority of the pressure build up would be lost at the point of the leak, causing the engine to receive less air than it normally would.

This results in the ECU thinking the engine has more air than it does, resulting in the over-fuelling.

great, i can see fun times are ahead.

the previous owner already changed the gasket not that long ago.

the car is also running without a cat, and tends to backfire a bit, could it be possible that when this has happened the backpressure has forced the manifold gasket apart?

a long shot i know, but when it backfired under load last night, i could have sworn i saw a bright orange flash from under the bonnet. the car hasent been the same since...

just a theory...

Inlet leaks will often give you an up and down idle as well. (ie on idle no boost NA so sucks air, on boost +ve pressure bleeds air performance down)

Grab a can of Aerostart and with car idling starting at the turbs spray each of the joints in the pipework moving towards your inlets. If the engine revs rise on spraying you have your leak (or one of them).

As for fixing the inlet leak, pulling off intake etc is a pita due to all the little pipes and shit under the plenum that you can't get to (unless you have little hand/arms and a few special tools) so almost always an engine out job.

If you are going that far have a think about checking/replacing your turbs and ..... and .... and .... bingo $10k later she's all good.

Its a tricky job working around the plenum, throttle bodies, inlet manifold with the engine in the car but by no means impossible. I have done it all about 4-5 times now and its pretty easy when you know what your doing and have the right tools. Pity im not im Melbourne anymore! I could do it for you guys at a good price :D

Basically you have 6 throttle body gaskets that can leak and one long inlet manifold gasket that can leak on that side of the engine. Give the aerostart a go as it will narrow down your area in which the problem is then you can save time and money.

You'll find the majority of them will break when you pull it apart anyway :cheers: If they have already been done and there is still a problem, more than likely its due to bad preparation before fitting the new gaskets last time. The surface MUST be spotless or else you will find that it will still leak. If you need anymore help doing the work, PM me and i can answer any other questions you might have :cheers:

Deren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...