Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nick just suggested seeing what it would cost for one brand new. There is no way i'd go new for that price.

Have you been able to get a hold of a Z32 AFM yet for your build?

...talking about builds, at the workshop where I take my car there was a R33 gtst with high mount CGC turbo (600hp X?? range). started spooling at 4000rpm and hit full boost at 5500rpm.

He had what looked like a modified standard plenum that was forward facing, turbosmart external wastegate, and worked internals.

Where you going that extreme (basicly it was for drag racing and not that much for street).

Mark

Guest INASNT

i had the z32 afm ages ago, i just got the plug for it yesterday and its all installed. I got external gate and 3037 going on custom manifold! the internals are staying standard till it blows or when i decide to spend more dosh at once with headwork, 1.6mm head gasket, forged piston, short penned rods and nitrided crank!

Originally posted by MRK25T

Nick just suggested seeing what it would cost for one brand new. There is no way i'd go new for that price.

Have you been able to get a hold of a Z32 AFM yet for your build?

...talking about builds, at the workshop where I take my car there was a R33 gtst with high mount CGC turbo (600hp X?? range). started spooling at 4000rpm and hit full boost at 5500rpm.

He had what looked like a modified standard plenum that was forward facing, turbosmart external wastegate, and worked internals.

Where you going that extreme (basicly it was for drag racing and not that much for street).

Mark

That would be this one ?? Same as the one I want for my RB30DET Conversion...

r33turbokit.jpg

Im not sure what brand it is, my mechanic had it and put it on the exhaust side. It wasn't touched when I got the tune as the guy tuning didn't believe it made any difference.

I heard cams can make a difference of 30kw in the lower power band, is that correct? might be worth investing in some.

Mark

Hi Mark25T,

You can buy Z32 AFM's from Petroject in sydney, in an as new condition go to http://www.petroject.com.au/ and look under EFI parts or call them on 1300 30 40 60, they won't cost you $850 thats for sure!

As for the plug that connects to the Z32 AFM yes you will need to get a new one. The plug that goes onto your existing AFM will not plug into the Z32AFM however all you need do is obtain a plug from a RB30 (out of a VL) as this plugs straight onto a Z32AFM..well it did when i installed Z32AFM's on my car! Just take your Z32AFM to any VL wrecker to make sure it plugs straight on.

cam gears make a huge difference in the tuneability of the car. My car was not making boost until around 4200rpm and full boost not being reached until after 5000rpm I then had it tuned with heaps of attention being paid to the cam timing via the cam gears...end result boost starts at 3000rpm and reaches peak boost at 4400rpm, thus much better street performance. Really just depends on what you want your car to do!

Cheers

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by STUGTR

Hi Mark25T,

You can buy Z32 AFM's from Petroject in sydney, in an as new condition go to http://www.petroject.com.au/ and look under EFI parts or call them on 1300 30 40 60, they won't cost you $850 thats for sure!

As for the plug that connects to the Z32 AFM yes you will need to get a new one. The plug that goes onto your existing AFM will not plug into the Z32AFM however all you need do is obtain a plug from a RB30 (out of a VL) as this plugs straight onto a Z32AFM..well it did when i installed Z32AFM's on my car! Just take your Z32AFM to any VL wrecker to make sure it plugs straight on.

cam gears make a huge difference in the tuneability of the car. My car was not making boost until around 4200rpm and full boost not being reached until after 5000rpm I then had it tuned with heaps of attention being paid to the cam timing via the cam gears...end result boost starts at 3000rpm and reaches peak boost at 4400rpm, thus much better street performance. Really just depends on what you want your car to do!

Cheers

retard the exhaust cam gear by 4 degree and u get a good power gain

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by MRK25T

Petroject doesn't sell them anymore because they have had problems in the past. They recommended Hills because they are not dealing in them anymore.

Any other suggestions Stu?

Mark

search the for sale section u will find 1 for sale, i bought mine from the forums

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...