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To Standard Rebuild Or To Forged Rebuild

johnsta2k
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johnsta2k Community Regular

johnsta2k

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Hello

I know these typical engine rebuilds threads have been covered numerous of times however, I personally just want to obtain others' perspective. As per topic, my engine is experiencing some 'bearing' issue(s) at the moment and decided to rebuild bottom-end however, weighing factors between a forged and standard I'm having dramas finalizing. My aim for the vehicle in terms of power output would be a solid 250kw or so, is a daily driven for work, uni and I intend to keep it for awhile.

If budget was not a matter of concern, which type of rebuild would you prefer and why?

Thanks in advance :whistling:

PWND Grand Master

PWND

Posted
Posted

if budget is not a matter of concern?

forged rebuild of course. peace of mind knowing you have stronger than factory internals

even if budget was a matter of concern. when you factor in the engine out and labour, it would be worth while spending the extra little bit and getting the forged rebuild over the standard.

just my opinion.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted

can you build a light tuff engine? Dont go silly on it. Just throw some nice pistons in, and have everything balanced...

what I would do for the power level...

johnsta2k Community Regular

johnsta2k

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if budget is not a matter of concern?

forged rebuild of course. peace of mind knowing you have stronger than factory internals

even if budget was a matter of concern. when you factor in the engine out and labour, it would be worth while spending the extra little bit and getting the forged rebuild over the standard.

just my opinion.

i agree but, do you believe it would be such a waste/overkill having top notch engine components on a daily driven vehicle?

johnsta2k Community Regular

johnsta2k

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  • Author
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I agree with ^

why not an Rb30det?? Thats what i have planned when/if my engine goes.

RB30? hehe I actually haven't searched into that option yet however, I did considered a stroker 2.8l kit :laugh: Some were emphasizing the fact that mine isn't a dedicated race car (hence, waste of investment unless I'm trying to squeeze every kw :banana: ), while others were encouraging to get it.

johnsta2k Community Regular

johnsta2k

Posted
  • Author
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can you build a light tuff engine? Dont go silly on it. Just throw some nice pistons in, and have everything balanced...

what I would do for the power level...

Yeah I want to make a smart investment ("not going silly") and do intend to have a turbo upgrade (HKS GT-RS) down the track preferably after the rebuild. At the moment in relations to the forged I do have two options as I can see: 1) regular forged or 2) stroker kit

I guess not having a budget does create this drama but, any opinion you fellas advocate will be much appreciated!

InterCooL Rising Star

InterCooL

Posted
Posted

also i think there's a rb25det for sale in the classified section for around the $750 , complete motor. it's your 'other end of the spectrum' cheapo fix

when my bearings went on my sr20, i hunted around for a pre-built forged bottom end and got one shipped from interstate. cost me $2800, supported 350rwkw+.

make some calls to some tuners you know or some local performance shops and see if they have any built rb25 / rb30 bottom ends you could buy :laugh:

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Honestly my oponion would be to buy a cheap rb25det that is in good condition and chuck it in and continue your voyage to 250rwkw. Keep in mind the stock bottom end still has another 50rwkw in headroom and is still considered safe hp for the engine.

Dont waste your money rebuilding the engine. Buy another one for $1500 and sell your old one for $750 and your laughing.

RB25 will do your 250rwkw standing on its head.

dmac_25 Grand Master

dmac_25

Posted
Posted

New bearings,

New pistons wisco for cheap cp tomei hks for top end

all new seals

rod bolts head bolts big end ARP items

cranck collar

N1 pump

maybe cams or just cam gears

s15 injectors

bigger turbo gtr-s is good or 2535

power fc with boost kit or avcr

tomei or cometic head gasket

Basic build about 3-5k if you pull it out and put it back in your self

Also think about shot peneing the rods

and get it all balanced

johnsta2k Community Regular

johnsta2k

Posted
  • Author
Posted
also i think there's a rb25det for sale in the classified section for around the $750 , complete motor. it's your 'other end of the spectrum' cheapo fix

when my bearings went on my sr20, i hunted around for a pre-built forged bottom end and got one shipped from interstate. cost me $2800, supported 350rwkw+.

make some calls to some tuners you know or some local performance shops and see if they have any built rb25 / rb30 bottom ends you could buy :P

Hrmm, will give this option ago as well and see what I can dig up. While I'm at it might search for RB26 LOL!!

johnsta2k Community Regular

johnsta2k

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Honestly my oponion would be to buy a cheap rb25det that is in good condition and chuck it in and continue your voyage to 250rwkw. Keep in mind the stock bottom end still has another 50rwkw in headroom and is still considered safe hp for the engine.

Dont waste your money rebuilding the engine. Buy another one for $1500 and sell your old one for $750 and your laughing.

RB25 will do your 250rwkw standing on its head.

I'll probably pass on this, I know a fair amount of money is involved labour wise but, in the end I do want to keep the car for awhile (few more years) so getting everything brand new is the direction I want to follow.

johnsta2k Community Regular

johnsta2k

Posted
  • Author
Posted
New bearings,

New pistons wisco for cheap cp tomei hks for top end

all new seals

rod bolts head bolts big end ARP items

cranck collar

N1 pump

maybe cams or just cam gears

s15 injectors

bigger turbo gtr-s is good or 2535

power fc with boost kit or avcr

tomei or cometic head gasket

Basic build about 3-5k if you pull it out and put it back in your self

Also think about shot peneing the rods

and get it all balanced

N1 pump, is it necessary to include them? I presume its water and oil? :P

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

When you are after something in the 300+range. The oil pump atleast.

Though people will tell you plenty of cars get into the 300's in standard motor trim with a big turbo bolted to the side.

IMO if you are doing a full rebuild why skimp on good parts.Id want to make sure all the bases were covered.

Yawn Mentor

Yawn

Posted
Posted (edited)

As you said, budgets not a problem and if you intend to keep the car and pay for the labour involved in taking apart and in and out, then you might as well get it rebuilt with uprated internals. And since the oil pump is basically a motor out job, you might as well spend the couple hundred bucks on doing it, which gives you the option of having 300+kw later on.

Just a word of advice, what an engine build is budgeted to be at the beginning always ends up a couple grand more from my experience, so just budget for that.

Edited by Yawn
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
As you said, budgets not a problem and if you intend to keep the car and pay for the labour involved in taking apart and in and out, then you might as well get it rebuilt with uprated internals. And since the oil pump is basically a motor out job, you might as well spend the couple hundred bucks on doing it, which gives you the option of having 300+kw later on.

Just a word of advice, what an engine build is budgeted to be at the beginning always ends up a couple grand more from my experience, so just budget for that.

Couldnt agree more. Alot of people budget for parts and labor but its always the little things that blow the budget out a tad.New lines and piping,replacing tired parts ect ect.

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