Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

any one out ther etried the Falken FK451's ?

in particular on standard R33 GTSt rims?

they seem like a really good tyre, but I was told that the Falken tyres are alot better in the larger/wider tyre sizes... can any one confirm/deny this?

I was looking at just replacing th estock the stock tyres on the stock rims, but not too sure... any other suggestions?

Also, just to confirm... R33 GTSt stockies are 16*6's y/n?

I've been told 16*6's and 16*6.5's... and I'm too lazy to take the wheel off :D

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/
Share on other sites

I saw these 2 threads... and other stuff from other forums and on the net... just a bit worried about putting them on the stock rims though.

Ah well, I'll give them a whirl and see how they go, got about 1 mm on the back and 2mm of tread on the front... have to bite the bullet and find something soon!

Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-462774
Share on other sites

they are alright for performance, only noisey and have bad ride quaility.

they are all the same as they made with same compound, size won't affect the quaility.

The only reason most ppls with big rims having them, is because they are the cheapest performance tyre which have LARGE range of size.

most of the brand only sell their TOP of the range performance tyre in low profile 17/18 or even 19. but falken have all of them even with the lowest range

stock rim should be 6"5, fit 225/50/16

but i heard some one fit a 245/45/16, not sure though.

hope that help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-463264
Share on other sites

Well Fk451 are not too bad but have you ever thought about the ST115s? These are basically street Azenis rubber that have a soft compound but are great at giving you feedback and stick really good too. There not that much more then the FK451 but are heaps better when it comes to handeling and they have very little tyre noise too. Hope that helps mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-469892
Share on other sites

Really good JimX. Wet or Dry, i have found these tyres extremly good. Even in the wet they have the same amount of feedback as in the dry. Heaps better then the FK451. Only down side is that they might wear abit qiuk due to it being a softer compound but that's the price you pay for having good tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-472153
Share on other sites

I'm used to having soft tyres. I need to replace the rear on my motorcycle every 6000km or so @$300 a pop. I think I'll try the ST115's, especially since they were cheaper than the FK451's (unless the shop guy got the prices wrong when I rang).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-472346
Share on other sites

Is $280 per tyre for ST115 in 255/40/17 a good price? That's what I got quoted from my local Falken tyre shop. The ZE326's and FK451's were both $320 each. Is there anyplace in Sydney that can do better than $280 for the ST115's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-472516
Share on other sites

I think I stuffed up, I think I confused the prices I got for the ZE326 and ST115 around the wrong way. Which would mean this place sells the ST115's for $310. In that case, where can I get the ST115's for $280 in Sydney?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-473312
Share on other sites

For anyone that's interested, I found out why ST115's have low road noise. According to Falken's American site, the ST115's have "Base tread rubber compound contains micro vacuum capsules that literally suck up road noise". I'm assuming that this also means less rubber hence they wear out quicker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-483291
Share on other sites

Going off reports on both I don't think they are worth the price difference. But this is only a rough judgement call based on other people's opinions, there's no way to tell unless you've test-driven both yourself. If I had lots of spare money I'd buy the best tyres I could but I can't so I'm going for the ST115's or FK451's (probably the former).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21792-falken-fk451s/#findComment-492475
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...