Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh man, this just started happening to me about a month ago. After reading everything I'm kinda scared this will cost me an arm and a leg. I don't know if its a coincidence but it only happens when the weather is really cold? I also haven't got my 100,000km service and I'm at 106,000km, could getting it serviced maybe fix it?

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Has anyone found a solution for this yet?

I have two vehicles here with the same issue.

Ive tried, new and used solonoids, new valve body, ECU, Wiring loom and double checked it, Shift control unit (drivers kickpanel)

  • 2 months later...

happened to me tonight. was having some fun in the wet and it didnt wana get out of 3rd. turned car off, turned it back on A/T started flashing, turned off again, turned it back on and it was gone. about an hour later after some spirited driving happened again.

is my box on its way out?

anyone got some solid answers?

happened to me tonight. was having some fun in the wet and it didnt wana get out of 3rd. turned car off, turned it back on A/T started flashing, turned off again, turned it back on and it was gone. about an hour later after some spirited driving happened again.

is my box on its way out?

anyone got some solid answers?

what does a/t light mean sorry for noob question

Well hopefully you all get a solution before you need a new box like I did :-(

And the worst part is the new box was speed limited again doh! Not that u can do it often, but occasionally it was nice to get her up to 220-230 now it just bangs against it at 185, sucks but probably for my own good lol.

how often did it happen?

mine only does it when i do slides in the wet, like holding in 2nd...

though ive noticed that it only happens when, i come to a corner with it in 2nd and it drops into 1st itself and i dont realise and i smash limiter in 1st a few times before changing into 2nd.

thats when the light usually comes on.

Read back through the thread, I think most peoples happened after going around corners, mine seemed to happen when I would pull up going downhill, then when taking off again it would be in limp mode (locked in 3rd)

how often did it happen?

mine only does it when i do slides in the wet, like holding in 2nd...

though ive noticed that it only happens when, i come to a corner with it in 2nd and it drops into 1st itself and i dont realise and i smash limiter in 1st a few times before changing into 2nd.

thats when the light usually comes on.

  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys....

just last nightgoing back to wollongong to sydney i've lost my 1 2 4 gear, i was so stunned.from every traffic light i had to wait until it get to 40 so i can move lol....TO ALL YOU GUYS in HERE what is the best option?etc..Change Gearbox or get a shift kit solenoid? Thanks for your help in advance...JAy-R :blush:

OK just to highlight there are two types of issue you can run into.

1. Excessive sideways action (normally a stpuid amount) will get the gearbox to lock into 3rd, it's a safety feature. I've experienced that only at skidpan days and still only managed it twice in the whole day.

2. Most common is the solenoids shitting themselves.

There is a diagnostic procedure in the workshop manual that involves a sequence of braking and gearshifitng that will run the transmission diagnostic, this is a good start to really delve into the problem as it is very specific and will highlight 100% if it's the solenoids or other components.

never did any sideways action yet lol....my friend tells me just to leave it on drive when im driving instead of using the tiptronic is he right about his theory?i was thin king to my self that they put the tip control so u we can use it lol.....so yeah might be the solenoid!....

never did any sideways action yet lol....my friend tells me just to leave it on drive when im driving instead of using the tiptronic is he right about his theory?i was thin king to my self that they put the tip control so u we can use it lol.....so yeah might be the solenoid ohh yea r34 25GT non turbo

i have a question now lol. i got a shift kit fitted in my r34 and it got a service and all that as well. now driving it has been fine no dramas at all, i went to the petrol station and filled up then went to start my car up ( i turned it to the point before the engine starts cranking over) and the A/T light started to flash and it got me worried, but i started it up it went away and drives fine so i drove for a bit and tried it again to see if it flashes and it did. then i tried again and it stopped flashing. i drove home turned it off and tried again and it was fine. should i be worried or just watch it closely.

i have a question now lol. i got a shift kit fitted in my r34 and it got a service and all that as well. now driving it has been fine no dramas at all, i went to the petrol station and filled up then went to start my car up ( i turned it to the point before the engine starts cranking over) and the A/T light started to flash and it got me worried, but i started it up it went away and drives fine so i drove for a bit and tried it again to see if it flashes and it did. then i tried again and it stopped flashing. i drove home turned it off and tried again and it was fine. should i be worried or just watch it closely.

Well it doesn't flash for no reason :banana: I'd try pulling the codes off the transmission ECU to see the cause.

ok so i did the diagnostic check but im still confused it did 2 delayed flashes at the beginnning then 13 close together flashes what does that mean?

edit: ok i think i get it correct me if im wrong but if the first 2 flashes are delayed then they are the problem ones. which means they are the speed sensors so what does that mean? and what do they do?

OK you should have a big delay, that indicates you need to start counting. Then 13 flashes, whatever flash is slightly longer is the problem. So i'm guessing you're seeing flash number one as more delayed (ie big delay, then flash one delayed?)

Which is Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 (Output shaft speed sensor) it's the sensor on the gearbox visible from underneath on the drivers side, orange/brown plug I think.

May be something as simple as needing the contacts cleaned, seeing as it's random (and something they may have touched fitting the shift kit)

I'd unplug, clean and clip back on.

Edited by 666DAN
OK you should have a big delay, that indicates you need to start counting. Then 13 flashes, whatever flash is slightly longer is the problem. So i'm guessing you're seeing flash number one as more delayed (ie big delay, then flash one delayed?)

Which is Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 (Output shaft speed sensor) it's the sensor on the gearbox visible from underneath on the drivers side, orange/brown plug I think.

May be something as simple as needing the contacts cleaned, seeing as it's random (and something they may have touched fitting the shift kit)

I'd unplug, clean and clip back on.

thank you very much you are a champ. ill check it out and go for a drive later on to see if i get the flashing again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...