Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Defi Gauges, Heads Up Display and Control Unit 2

Age:New and used

Condition:excellent

Price: Stated below

To Fit: (What car)

Location:Melbourne

Contact:0412 005 791 or PM me

Comments: Not needed anymore. Price is negotiable. Not entirely sure what these items retail for at the moment so throw me some offers.

Hi,

I have some Defi goods for sale. The gauges are unused and still in boxes, while the control unit is used but has all the required wiring,

1. 60mm Blue face Defi Boost gauge ($200)

2. 52mm Oil temp gauge ($150) (Not BF gauges)

3. 52mm Oil pressure guage ($170) (Not BF gauges)

4. Defi Control Unit 2 ($70)

5. Defi Heads Up Display ($300) -> This display can be hooked up with the gauges to show data such as boost, oil temp, oil pressure etc. It also shows Speed and perhaps Revs.

Price is negotiable. I will sell the whole lot at a cheaper price. Throw me some offers.

Located: Eastern Suburbs Victoria

Reason for sale: No longer needed

Thanks,

Jon

Edited by silkishuge

Hey mate..

Had a look at the Defi HUD.. What is needed?.. I assume that you need some sort of Defi control unit?.. Do you need the specific gauges for it to be shown in the HUD? What else is needed?

Hey mate..

Had a look at the Defi HUD.. What is needed?.. I assume that you need some sort of Defi control unit?.. Do you need the specific gauges for it to be shown in the HUD? What else is needed?

You will need a Control Unit and if you want to display other information, you will also need to purchase the sensors separately. Alternatively, you can buy the oil pressure and temperature gauges, which will also have the sensors you need. You will find that buying the sensors separate, will cost nearly as much as buying them with the gauges.

Jon

pm sent for control unit & boost gauge

Control Unit 2 and boost gauge have been sold.

Thanks for interest.

Alot of interest in the oil temp and oil pressure gauges but awaiting someone who has told me he wants the item over the phone but has not PM me yet to identify himself.

PRICE DROP on HUD -> ($230)

Thanks,

Jon

If you look at the price in Yen, at todays conversion would still require about $180 for the oil temperature gauge and $250 for the oil pressure gauge.

Jon

If you look at the price in Yen, at todays conversion would still require about $180 for the oil temperature gauge and $250 for the oil pressure gauge.

Jon

Defi HUD is now sold.

Items remaining are the oil pressure and oil temperature gauges.

Thanks,

Jon

are the oil temp. and press. gauges new?comes with all the required sensors,wirings etc?oh..and what color does it light up?do have the model of it?

Edited by GReddy_ES8
are the oil temp. and press. gauges new?comes with all the required sensors,wirings etc?oh..and what color does it light up?do have the model of it?

The oil temperature and oil pressure gauges are new and have never been installed in any car. They come with all the required sensors. I do not know what colour they light up because I have never used them before.

This is taken from an advertisement of the gauges:

Defi-Link Meters are electronic gauges which are high response and refined design.

Defi-Link Meters need to be connected to Defi-Link Control Unit II.

Up to 7 gauges can be connected and controlled by one Control UnitII. The name of the connection system is "Defi-Link System." Defi-Link System allows gauges to be attached to Defi-Link Control Unit II with a single "DAISY CHAIN" wiring system. Each gauge has two LEDs. One LED illuminates when the gauge pointer exceeds a warning value which is discretionary with the Control Unit II. The other LED illuminates when the gauge pointer exceeds a past maximum value.

FeatureNote

Gorgeous Opening mode: During the opening mode, wire disconnections, short circuits, and serial errors are checked automatically. When errors are found, LEDs light up in order.

Full-lineup: boost(for turbocharged and supercharged engines), intake manifold pressure(for natural aspirated engine), oil pressure, water temperature, oil temperature, fuel pressure, exhaust gas temperature and tachometer. White and black gauge

dials are available. A bright transparent green gauge dial and a red instrument needle pointer are used in the gauges to increase visibility at night and in low-light conditions.

The scale of 4 1/2" gauges is compressed to acquire great visibility and ease of use. Wide-angle scale is used at the idling range 0~1,000RPM. The scale is fitted to recent engine power band and linear scale is used from 3,000RPM to 11,000RPM.

NEW Regular Position Bezel is attached to 52mm gauges. The bezel enable user to find a subtle change in car by setting

the position of the red triangle depending on the driving situation.

Driving data can be stored and can be replayed up to 3 minutes.

Double Warning function by a meter's LED lamp and a beep

If Defi-Link Indicator(sold separately) is connected, it blinks when any of connected meters' warning LED lights.

Defi-Link Indicator can be connected with each meter.(Defi-Link Indicator is standard option for 4 1/2" and 3 1/8"

Defi-Link Meters.)

Differential pressure between fuel pressure and turbo can be shown if both of fuel pressure meter and turbo meter are

nstalled.(*3)

Defi-Link Control Unit II or Defi-Link Control Unit is necessary to operate Defi-Link Meter.

Defi-Link Meters are applicable to 12V vehicles only.

Hope that helps.

Jon

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...