Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just want to confirm I got the correct braided brake lines as they look completely different to whats on the car.

I've attached a pic of what the R32 GTR ones look like from the Markk group buy on ADR approved lines.

Is this the correct ones for an R33?

They don't look anything like whats on there now so I'm not sure about fitting them on....

Has anyone fitted there R33 GTR's ones?

Are these the correct lines?

Apologies for the terrible pictures, I don't want to take it out of the packaging if it is the wrong one....

Regards,

Gareth

post-13527-1210156538_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156778_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156799_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156814_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156842_thumb.jpg

Yeah, i received the incorrect ones, but it was no ones fault. Ive got a 93 r32 gtst M spec which should use the gtr ones pictured above, but it uses normal r32 ones which do not have the 'V' shape for the front lines. Ring Goran at Brakewest if you have any further problems. His customer service is excellent.

Shaun.

They are the right hoses mate.

PM sent with further details.

Cheers

Thanks a lot Mark.

I think my current ones must be aftermarket then, I have a 1 piece brake hose on the front with a bracket there to hold it, it doesn't look like these particular lines will be able to connect.

I might need some other parts to put these in.

Does anyone have a picture of what the factory R33 GTR lines look like?

I'll try and post pictures of what my ones look like tomorrow.

I created this thread to confirm that they are standard lines.

But still no idea how to fit them, does anyone have an install guide for the braided brake lines?

Or any tips on how you installed them? I can't see how they would connect the existing system doesn't have block connectors on it at all.

Thanks,

Gareth

if they are the correct lines you should just unbolt your old ones from the caliper on one end and from the hard metal line at the other end, then install the new lines in their place. same process for front and rear. if that wont work then you have the wrong lines.

I don't know which thread to respond in, so this is a quote from the other one.

I can't see what your problem is. The braided kit only replaces the 2 rubber hoses, the standard steel hoses remain.

On the front, the block bolts to the upright.

One braided hose (from memory the longer one) goes from the block to the inner guard where it joins the steel tube at the right angle bracket on the inner guard.

The other braided hose (from memory the shorter one) goes from the block to the joint for the steel tube that goes to the calliper.

On the rear, the block end of the braided hose bolts to the steel hose that goes to the calliper.

The other end of the braided hose joins the steel tube at the right angle bracket on the inner guard .

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...