Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It looks pretty straight forward mate, Im going to do the same thing soon, as my P/S resivoir is leaking. I think one of the hoses has a split in it. Looks like your a type of bloke thats willing to pull apart and learn as you go, I say go for it..... Have a look for the lowest point in the lines or if there is a bung in the bottom of the P/S motor itself. Like I say, It should be pretty straight forward.

Sumo

I just get one of those oil pumps and remove as much fluid from the reservoir as i can. Then i fill it up, and run the engine for a coupla minutes and then repeat about 2 - 3 times until the fluid is bright red like the ATF im putting in! The manual never mentions anything about replacing PS Fluid but I do it every coupla years or so just to make sure.

On the R32 there are 2 bleeding points in the rear steering rack. I imagine the best way to bleed this would be whilst in diagnostic mode while the rear wheels are turning. THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO R33 AS IT IS ELECTRIC NOT HYDROLIC.

Air normally works it way out of the system fairly quickly. I've never seen the need to do this. Just turn the wheel from lock to lock a few dozen times and that seems to work.

undo any hose lower than the reservoir and let it out then turn the steer a few times and more will come out never all of it though . u can undo the pipe on the rack itself then u'll get more out the do them up and fill her up . when the reservoir is full start the engine and as the level goes down keep filling once its full turn steering a few times and fill up again the system bleed sitself out but make sure the level is right when u finish once its bled out u'll see the oil just red no more bubbles in it . i hope it helps u , its an easy job to do .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed, I've never seen a 260RS specific manual. As GTSBoy said it will mostly be stagea other than the engine loom https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/stageaservicemanual.pdf
    • You'lll likely have to make do with R33 GTR for engine/tranny stuff, and Stagea for the body. I don't know that there's even been an actual diagram seen in the wild.
    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
×
×
  • Create New...