Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Indeed, i wish i could read that wack schematic they posted? What are those two different sized rings about? A multi nozzle array?...

Without trying to be a critic, i await to see what closed loop system they implement for when the espresso machine water pump, even mounted in a metal box, dies from having to pump a constantly varying water pressure loads for a few years.

On a second look at the schematic, it looks like its a setup from a jet turbine, hence the "engine water pump" at the bottom left, and the duel staggered ring shaped nozzle array.

Those pressure regulators and the surge chamber sounds pretty trick. As for triggering, i would think the regulators would take care of that. Awaiting part 2 !

AutoSpeed Water Injection System Part 2

Interesting. I do like their seemingly comprehensive testing procedures and logic.

Though it looks like they are going to position the nozzle before the air filter, claiming it'll will provide "proportional amounts of water : air"

I'm not so sure about this. The key IMO, is being able to tell the existing ECU (in AS.com's example, an OEM ECU) that the detonation suppressing system is working and to take advantage of this with more ignition, less fuel etc.

For the system to be really worth it, it should allow such aggressive fuel/ign that if the system ever failed to turn on, the motor would suffer serious det damage... this is all means, the control of water : air must be EXTREMELY tightly controlled, not "roughly proportional"

my 2 cents

Not entirely, would be pretty impressive if they run that coffee machine pump for a good few years without issue.

Also, the IC intercool spray pulled like 25% more heat from the intake charge, then WI! lol.

Proper WI in the US is pretty big. Its essentially another whole fuel system, rail, injectors, reg etc. They add a water soluble oil to the water to allow Petroleum hardware to work and not rust. They run real 40% water : fuel ratios, not the 65 ml/minute AS.com are trying.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...