Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically just wanting to see what would look best....

I have a Silver Series II R33...so yeah if u have any pics of ur coloured brakes on a silver car, it would be great to see what they look like...

Let me know...

Cheers

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218487-painting-brake-calipers/
Share on other sites

^^^ went the brembo theme haha, looks good

just a tip with the painting, make sure they are absolutely clean when your painting (so get heaps of brake cleaner, dont cheap out on it), if you dont prep it well, under the extreme heat the paint will flake off easily then your calipers will = ghey

Hey mate where you get the front lip from, I prefer it to be a plastic rather than fibreglass one.

Off the forums.. it's an East Bear splitter.. don't think they do plastic just glass, the bar is plastic though.

at the moment i am leaning towards silver so it look clean, simple and crisp....i mainly am doin it so that i dont see that 'rust' coloured brown on the rotor and the brake....

keep the suggestions coming!

oh forgot to mention

i actually think silver on the hub (where the wheel bolts to) and red on the caliper itself

in my mind, there are only 2 options for either

hubs: silver, black

calipers: red, gold, silver, or black

make whatever combo you want from the above but these colours are always going to look the best as they are well known factory brake colours.

if you start playing around with pansy colours like purple (someone suggested it) you are going to get laughed at. stick with the tried and tested as it shows that you know about brakes, not that you were bored and went shopping at supercheap

given the R-series skylines had nice looking sumitomo brakes i would paint the calipers a bold colour like red.

on my V35 the brakes are less nice to look at so i left them silver to draw less attention :)

black ftw

DSCF1933.jpg

Very nice mate...planning to do mine black when I fit my rotors next weekend hopefully. Was trying to decide on a color for the lettering and yours may have helped...is that white or silver?

Can I ask what you used for the calipers themselves, and how you went about doing the lettering? Feel free to PM me :domokun:

Very nice mate...planning to do mine black when I fit my rotors next weekend hopefully. Was trying to decide on a color for the lettering and yours may have helped...is that white or silver?

Can I ask what you used for the calipers themselves, and how you went about doing the lettering? Feel free to PM me :domokun:

My mate did them. Basically painted the calipers black, when dry lightly sanded the word "Nissan" back. So its just steel. Gives a really good finish, because tring to paint the letter seperatly or whateva never comes out well.... hope that helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...