Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, ill give some background to the story.

About 9 months ago before my car was defected the heater got stuck on, after a few hours it went back to normal operation and didn't have a problem.

The car has sat defected in my garage for around 7 months, just today i got it all back to stock and started it. The heater when ever i turn on the climate control, no matter what the temp setting is, its hot.

I done the AC diagnostic and i got this

first one screen lights up - normal

second one 25 - but that was indoors so no sunlight

third said 3 then after 5 seconds 30 then 5 seconds 3 and so on - not sure if thats ok?

forth said 41 and went through ll to 47 they all hot

the temps in 5 were 29 27 18 16 - so these look to be ok

This leads me to belive that the heater tap is sticky, or the motor is not working that operates the tap, or there is a loose wire to the motor.

Any other input?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218879-heater-stuck-on/
Share on other sites

The sensors look like they're reading fine to me. I would say that the motor which controls the hot/cool air is stuck. Really common problem on the R32's.

In your passenger's foot well, look behind the center where the head unit will be (behind dash) and you'll see the motor which controls it. Try fiddling with the cables which control it and see if the motor moves. If not, try manually move it. If it still doesn't work, the motor's most probably gone. Now that it's nearly winter (in Australia), just manually turn it to the 'hot' and leave it, but if you rather the cool air, turn it to the cool one.

Hope that made some sense. If not, I'll try to get some pics for you of what I'm talking about.

Edit: If your other motor's still working (the one which moves the direction of air), change it from blowing on your feet to your face and take a look at the motor on the driver's side. The motor which controls the direction of air is on the driver's side and what you see moving is what I was talking about moving on the heater tap motor. It should be white.

Don't think that made sense to you at all. :P

Edited by adam-__-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218879-heater-stuck-on/#findComment-3862034
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...