Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good Day ,

Just Picked up my Stagea RS Four from the work shop,bought the car for my wife.It's a 1997 (R33) twin sunroof,automatic very standard when i got it.Put my standard GTR R 32 brakes on it upgraded to braided lines stops quite well now.Put in a full Nismo 3" exhaust system including dump pipe(got it second hand) changed to K&N high flow Fliters,car is breathing and expleling air much better.The car is running a rear 255 and 235 front tyre set up on 17" rims.

The reason a put up this post is because I need help in finding some parts for the car and assistance on my suspension set up.

The car came in without the rear spoiler and the grill badges can anybody assist me in finding a shop in Victoria that carries these parts or direct me to a on-line shop.

You Guys here at Skyline Australia ha been a great help with my GTR R32,THANKS

look foward to your advice with my STAGEA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219134-my-rs-four-stagea/
Share on other sites

Is it RWD only? The tyre sizes would indicate a possible difference in rolling diameters.

I just got a standard spoiler from Nizz Pro here in Ashmore. If you get a stock type I can PM on how to fit.

search Yahoo Japan for bits n pieces (wont find stuff in shops)

and ask Slidewize (trader section) to bid for them on your behalf

change the tyres, if AWD, to be equal, or you'll have an Very Expensive attessa repair issue

You can have wider tyres on the front and rear so long a the rolling diameters are the same. he meantioned it was an RS Four, so I'd assume AWD.

Thanks Guys for the advice,the car comes with a switch either for AWD or rear wheel drive only operations,I am currently running on rear wheel drive,plan to change all tyres to 235-45-17.

Thanks Guys for the advice,the car comes with a switch either for AWD or rear wheel drive only operations,I am currently running on rear wheel drive,plan to change all tyres to 235-45-17.

Wot switch?????

It's installed to the fuse of the FWD, anyway all tyres are of 45 profile and rims are 17" rolling diameter not affected

The transfer case is setup for AWD.

Even if all tyres are of the same profile, the 45 represents % of width, not tyre height. Differences in widths equal different rolling diameters.

  • 3 weeks later...
Good Day ,

Just Picked up my Stagea RS Four from the work shop,bought the car for my wife.It's a 1997 (R33) twin sunroof,automatic very standard when i got it.Put my standard GTR R 32 brakes on it upgraded to braided lines stops quite well now.Put in a full Nismo 3" exhaust system including dump pipe(got it second hand) changed to K&N high flow Fliters,car is breathing and expleling air much better.The car is running a rear 255 and 235 front tyre set up on 17" rims.

The reason a put up this post is because I need help in finding some parts for the car and assistance on my suspension set up.

The car came in without the rear spoiler and the grill badges can anybody assist me in finding a shop in Victoria that carries these parts or direct me to a on-line shop.

You Guys here at Skyline Australia ha been a great help with my GTR R32,THANKS

look foward to your advice with my STAGEA

Rear Spoiler and badges are no problem to send direct from Japan to you within 21 days. Just have a look at our site for more info.

It's installed to the fuse of the FWD, anyway all tyres are of 45 profile and rims are 17" rolling diameter not affected

this switch is the same as pulling the fuse,good idea,which is good but according to threads on this and peoples experiences it is bad for a few things/clutch packs(am i right anyone) and shafts etc,just in case you are new to stags and didnt already know,could be wrong just my knowledge

Bad idea with this switch. Its fine for R32GTR's (and R32 GTS4's too I'd guess) where you can just pull a fuse or hook up a switch but any attessa system based on R33 upwards you need to remove the front drive shaft to run in RWD safley. When you just pull the fuse (or switch, same thing) there is still residual (spelling :) ) pressure in the system causing the clutch packs to sill engage which will cause them to burn out = expensive repair. For short amounts of time it'd be ok but there have been other forum members that have had this happen just on 2WD dyno runs. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong but pretty sure this is correct!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...