Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good Day ,

Just Picked up my Stagea RS Four from the work shop,bought the car for my wife.It's a 1997 (R33) twin sunroof,automatic very standard when i got it.Put my standard GTR R 32 brakes on it upgraded to braided lines stops quite well now.Put in a full Nismo 3" exhaust system including dump pipe(got it second hand) changed to K&N high flow Fliters,car is breathing and expleling air much better.The car is running a rear 255 and 235 front tyre set up on 17" rims.

The reason a put up this post is because I need help in finding some parts for the car and assistance on my suspension set up.

The car came in without the rear spoiler and the grill badges can anybody assist me in finding a shop in Victoria that carries these parts or direct me to a on-line shop.

You Guys here at Skyline Australia ha been a great help with my GTR R32,THANKS

look foward to your advice with my STAGEA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219134-my-rs-four-stagea/
Share on other sites

Is it RWD only? The tyre sizes would indicate a possible difference in rolling diameters.

I just got a standard spoiler from Nizz Pro here in Ashmore. If you get a stock type I can PM on how to fit.

search Yahoo Japan for bits n pieces (wont find stuff in shops)

and ask Slidewize (trader section) to bid for them on your behalf

change the tyres, if AWD, to be equal, or you'll have an Very Expensive attessa repair issue

You can have wider tyres on the front and rear so long a the rolling diameters are the same. he meantioned it was an RS Four, so I'd assume AWD.

Thanks Guys for the advice,the car comes with a switch either for AWD or rear wheel drive only operations,I am currently running on rear wheel drive,plan to change all tyres to 235-45-17.

Thanks Guys for the advice,the car comes with a switch either for AWD or rear wheel drive only operations,I am currently running on rear wheel drive,plan to change all tyres to 235-45-17.

Wot switch?????

It's installed to the fuse of the FWD, anyway all tyres are of 45 profile and rims are 17" rolling diameter not affected

The transfer case is setup for AWD.

Even if all tyres are of the same profile, the 45 represents % of width, not tyre height. Differences in widths equal different rolling diameters.

  • 3 weeks later...
Good Day ,

Just Picked up my Stagea RS Four from the work shop,bought the car for my wife.It's a 1997 (R33) twin sunroof,automatic very standard when i got it.Put my standard GTR R 32 brakes on it upgraded to braided lines stops quite well now.Put in a full Nismo 3" exhaust system including dump pipe(got it second hand) changed to K&N high flow Fliters,car is breathing and expleling air much better.The car is running a rear 255 and 235 front tyre set up on 17" rims.

The reason a put up this post is because I need help in finding some parts for the car and assistance on my suspension set up.

The car came in without the rear spoiler and the grill badges can anybody assist me in finding a shop in Victoria that carries these parts or direct me to a on-line shop.

You Guys here at Skyline Australia ha been a great help with my GTR R32,THANKS

look foward to your advice with my STAGEA

Rear Spoiler and badges are no problem to send direct from Japan to you within 21 days. Just have a look at our site for more info.

It's installed to the fuse of the FWD, anyway all tyres are of 45 profile and rims are 17" rolling diameter not affected

this switch is the same as pulling the fuse,good idea,which is good but according to threads on this and peoples experiences it is bad for a few things/clutch packs(am i right anyone) and shafts etc,just in case you are new to stags and didnt already know,could be wrong just my knowledge

Bad idea with this switch. Its fine for R32GTR's (and R32 GTS4's too I'd guess) where you can just pull a fuse or hook up a switch but any attessa system based on R33 upwards you need to remove the front drive shaft to run in RWD safley. When you just pull the fuse (or switch, same thing) there is still residual (spelling :) ) pressure in the system causing the clutch packs to sill engage which will cause them to burn out = expensive repair. For short amounts of time it'd be ok but there have been other forum members that have had this happen just on 2WD dyno runs. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong but pretty sure this is correct!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...