Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ha ha....relax mate, i could put whatever front bar i wanted on, but ive got different priorities. If i wanted a car that looked good i wouldn't have bought a 33 in the first place. 242rwkw is where its at and more to come.

deluxe's modified 400r front bar is one i would have but prefer clean stock look.

haha yeh true my car looks just as stock at 222rwkw and hopefully 1 day around the 300 mark lols

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

no way do luck is cool gtr is also good but only on a gtr ^_^

well sorry but everyone has said how good my whole kit looks which includes my GTR front bar and rear pods i think they are hot but you dont get a whole GTR kit as it's not a GTR so YES your right by saying only on a GTR but thats when youn have a whole kit on a GTST

over time i've grown to like the standard look of an r33! there's nothing wrong with a standard s2 bar!

but this is mine before i put a gtr copy front on! would've got a s2 bar but they don't fit on s1 lights so i went with the gtr copy

221171063O546543559.jpg

That is sexy as dude, did that sit a decent amount off the ground?

Just on the subject of Front Bumpers, i have been told that with R33 GTS-t you cant put a aftermarket intercooler in coz the front bumper is not wide enough to fit. is this true? do i really have to upgrade to a GTR front?

Trust is a good frount bar but if you drive your car every day then i wouldnt put it on. I went trust frount bar,do-luck side skirts and trial rear bar. The kit sits low but i only drive it on the weekend plus iv got jap 19s so that helps aswell. Iv seen ugly r33s around in adelaide and thats because they go big kit and small ozzy offset rims or gay chrome rims. stock r33s can look very sexy aslong as they have the rims with the right offset. Also another thing is when ppl go show and no go ,iv got a full kit,carbon bonnet,ganadors gtr wing pumped and liped gaurds, custom blue paintjob(full rolling shell)but then iv got my rb25 getting a full rebuild with forged items and a gt35/40r il post pics of the hole car once its 100% complete.

Thats my 2cents

Trust is a good frount bar but if you drive your car every day then i wouldnt put it on. I went trust frount bar,do-luck side skirts and trial rear bar. The kit sits low but i only drive it on the weekend plus iv got jap 19s so that helps aswell. Iv seen ugly r33s around in adelaide and thats because they go big kit and small ozzy offset rims or gay chrome rims. stock r33s can look very sexy aslong as they have the rims with the right offset. Also another thing is when ppl go show and no go ,iv got a full kit,carbon bonnet,ganadors gtr wing pumped and liped gaurds, custom blue paintjob(full rolling shell)but then iv got my rb25 getting a full rebuild with forged items and a gt35/40r il post pics of the hole car once its 100% complete.

Thats my 2cents

thats the spirit!!!

yea ive got the whole standard type m kit, nothing different on the outside other than +26 18 x 10's rear and +11 18 x 9 on the front with stretched tyres on work vs-xx. Im very happy with the way it looks. Tidy and keeps the cops happy. More concerned about more power which is only a stone fall away. But if youve got the cash to do the kit and power then even better if its done right! :) good stuff.

but ur type m kit isnt really considered a 'kit' lol prefer bunnys gtr whole kit looks much better

well it has proper plastic type m sideskirts, proper plastic front type m lip and proper plastic rear type m pods.

what the f**k do you call that?

its an option at the factory. bodykit or no bodykit.

its called the factory bodykit, just like your fag balls deep kits are called do-luck kits.

well it has proper plastic type m sideskirts, proper plastic front type m lip and proper plastic rear type m pods.

what the f**k do you call that?

its an option at the factory. bodykit or no bodykit.

its called the factory bodykit, just like your fag balls deep kits are called do-luck kits.

exactly, its like with the 31s, they're either stock or you got the GTS kit (different front bar, side skirts and rear bar)

Kit is kit.......much prefer the factory kits

BN/VERTEX/DO LUCK etc are all too extreme and overdone i think

Less is more

well it has proper plastic type m sideskirts, proper plastic front type m lip and proper plastic rear type m pods.

what the f**k do you call that?

its an option at the factory. bodykit or no bodykit.

its called the factory bodykit, just like your fag balls deep kits are called do-luck kits.

lol yea ok ur got a heaps cool 'factory' bodykit ahahaha

lol mate your a twat. i would love to discuss this further in person.

im not saying its cool, im saying its better than the gay shit going around...and why does my opinion about my bodykit mean so much to you anyway?

a kit either makes or breaks a car, majority of the time it breaks it because nothing fits properly, its warped and a bad combination of styles from front to rear. Feel Free to put whatever shit you want on your car mate, it doesn't bother me in the slightest, purely because it makes me feel so much better than i spent my money in the right spots and didn't waste it ruining a perfectly decent stock looking car.

nuff said. suck a dick :)

Edited by Ryanrb25

it doesnt meen anything to me im just saying bunnys kit look better than yours ahahaha im aloud to give my own opinions your the one that put your car in the spot light like its so hektic because it got 'factory' kit lol and learn yoga and u can suck your own dick twat. ahaha :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...