Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I talked 2 my mate, and he said to do it the way Karl and Mine were done. Otherwise, go into any car stereo shop and they should be able to help you out.

Audiocom were about as useful as an arthritic baboon... :spank:

If you insist on putting 6x9s in, JB HIFI/Alberts/Westside etc will sell spacers for about $20.

Its either that or cut the parcel shelf.

Personally, I put 6.5 coaxials (same as 6x9, but round) in mine to get around using spacers.

I installed all my own audio gear, so if you want a hand, Im usually free sunday arvo (if your in Perth?? and not Kalgoorlie :spank:)

It isn't so much I insist, just my folks bought me some really nice speakers to go in the VL, I still got em, because they are a gift I feel like a sh*t bloke selling them, and not just that, I have seen skylines with them, so I know it isn't impossible, next time though, deft go 6.5 considering all the hassle...

I thought I was going to help you make it :D

lol. Its all good. We really couldn't be stuffed last weekend could we :D

With the way your shifts are going dude..

I won't see you for like... A month or something...

ok, too clear up 1 thing, drilling 4 little holes per speaker in the back shelf isn't going to weaken the structure any amount that you would even bother worring about, and if you were worried bout it well the make a doubler

What I care about is DPI regulations...

You may very well be right, and on engineering matters I trust you a lot (You know that)...

But yeah, if it is illegal I ain't doing it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...