Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: GT-R Big sump and front diff

Age: 2 years

Condition: Very Good

Price: $550 inc delivery to Toll Depot

To Fit: (What car) R32/33 GT-R

Location:Perth

Contact:PM

Comments:

This is a Maitland 9 litre sump for an R32/R33 GT-R

In addition to the extra capacity, there is the restrictor flap (one way hinge) to control oil starvation and the extended pick-up tower to ensure there is always oil supply to the pick-up.

This comes complete with a standard R32/33 GT-R 4.11 front diff that was in perfect working order when I removed the sump/diff assembly.

Reason for sale is that I built up a Hi-Octane sump with a 4.35 front diff.

This is heavy, but I can arrange delivery to any Toll Express depot.

At $550, this is cheap insurance to GT-R that may see the track.

PM if interested.

Pics here:

Sump

Sump

Sump

nice looking sump, and quite a good design with the cylinder to trap oil around the pickup and the one way door to limit the flow of oil to the front of the sump under hard braking. bargain. just the cost of having an extension welded to your orignal sump runs to the hundreds, plus of course you have to cut up your sump to do it. If I hadn't just got my trust sump welded up I would be all over this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...