Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gcg said they could do a t3/4 that was not ball bearing for 1800 i think, but if you just go a stock turbo you know what youve got and even if its not right you havent spent 2g

Meggala I just got a hks t04e to put on my 32, only cost 400 and I am modding the stock manifold to take the extermal gate, do you have any info on the turbo, hp rating boost efficiency range etc, thanks.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey clint its a treeible turbo you don't want it .

you will have to send it straght to me

:lol:

as for info it depends on the the a/r ratios etc.

btw I wouuld love to see pic of the manifold when done

400 hp would be a good guide talk to adam32 as he has one on his r32

meggala

its got a .6 ar exhaust and comp housing, not too big, about 59mm exhaust wheel i think.

the manifold is not as easy as i thought as there is not much room, i was going to do it like the jms onveia but there is less room in a 32 so the plate has to be angled to clear the strut tower. will take pics once its done wont be for a couple of months, as im dooing the inlet manifold as well and need to buy rx7 injectors and the wastegate.

Joel,

You know Tim at RPM pretty well so why not consider the GT28 400HP unit for RRP $2300. It has a small exhaust A/R of 0.63 so spool up should be good. 4" inlet and 0.7 A/R compressor should also give you 200rwkW easy.

All you need is the spacer for both rocker cover clearence and also adaption to the T3 flange.

Basically Tim can only do the T28 or the GT2510 which will only make around 180rwkw.

SO... I poped around a few places today found a HKS EVC which is a dual solanoid and has the rpm thingo and also a map sensor.

Then I came across a jap importers that is getting in a GT2540 next week that is from a GTR, he is splitting them as a friend of his wants one for his SR20.

I might put up with a bit of lag, it really depends if my injectors do end up being bigger than std. If so here I come 2540.

clint32,

fyi, the HKS T04E is actually rated at 500hp and would be perfect for an Rb20DET engine. a little laggier than the standard turbo but power/boost would come on quite hard.

check out the following link, it should give u all an indication of the hp ratings fro all the turbo's mentioned.

http://www.hksusa.com/categories/?id=1093

btw, a friend has a 400hp GT25 on his R32 RB20DET, along witha FMIC, unichip, and bigger pump and it's producing 222kw at the wheels on 18psi, with heaps more potential.

i guess it all depends on what u want from your car joel.

//RS500.

Joel, what turbo did you end up getting, or are you still deciding?

Have you spoke to Ben at Tilbrooks (Brains) He has a R31 wagon with a HKS 2530 on a Rb20, been in Zoom etc. That car goes pretty hard. It makes around 220 at the wheels, but being auto with 2500rpm stall, I don't think lag is to much of a problem in that car.

I think that fact remains that any bigger than stock turbo will be a bit laggier, but the trade of is consitant boost right up to the redline

I am in the process of getting **** toghether with my car for a bit of a power-up, including turbo, bigger intercooler and maybe new injectors or pressure regulator on the existing ones.

Let me know how you go

Chris

So, just how laggy are these turbos (hks 25 series) ? as i just recieved my gt2535 today and would have thought being a BB turbo and still being reasonably sized it should be quick to spool up. I thought i should have full boost by about 3500 rpm.

My turbo has a .60 a/r compressor and a .64 exhaust housing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...