Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well after doing a bit of research, it would appear that there is a fair bit of difference between the costs of getting mods engineered - or engineer reports/permits.

In WA, it appears that you can get certificates for your mods when you take a car over the pits, just pay a small extra fee (aout $40?) and presto, a piece of paper with permission to have the mods on your car.

It appears that in NSW it isnt an overly expensive exercise to have these things done??? But not sure what the process is.

In SA, I have made enquiries and it appears that there are only two places in Adeliade that will do engineers reports, and look at minimum of $300 PER MOD, ie thousands to get the car done.

Does anybody have any idea what the regulations on who/where mods can get engineered, and especially, if I say get mods engineered in VIC, NSW, WA, NT, QLD - would these certificates still be valid in SA? or any other state?

If anybody knows of workshops or companies in their home states that will provide these certificates, please post up as well. With if possible price summaries:)

It may save me (and others hopefully) thousands of dollars

Thanks for any replies.

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21985-getting-mods-engineered/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

not too sure, but here in nsw im bout to get mine done, and its like 400 bucks for all mods, id say it should, www.rta.nsw.gov.au should have registered engineer's so i guess u can only find out for sure from them..

cheers...

www.freewebs.com/2BNVS_r33

i would be interested to know about this in QLD.

I will also ask my mate when he gets online and let you know what he is doing. (His VL is going to a 2 seater, manual to auto, roll cage, so engineering/mod plate required)

Steve, In WA I think your mixing up permits for mods like pod filters exhuast etc., with mods for ADR compliance.

Any major modification will need to be certified by an engineer to insure it complies with the ADR's. Can cost quite alot, as they need to write a report.

Luckily in WA as there are insuffucient Automotive Engineers, so most Mechanical Engineers can also write these reports, and we have one as an SAU member.

Thanks for the replies. I did a bit more research and it appears if, after extensive emissions, acceleration, braking and chassis testing, if all goes well and nothing needs modifying, would get out of it in SA for about 2k

Hopefully, SA vehicle inspectors will allow interstate certification, might be able to get out of things a bit cheaper

Paul,

Here in SA, some of the inspectors will require certificates for anything that isnt OEM. There are only two places that do engineers certification (wich can be required for anything that isnt stock), and the cheapest is the one mentioned above. For example one guy I know of had a Z32 AFM on an R32 - inspector told him he had to remove as it wasnt OEM. A guy I work with has a stock range rover, they tried, but eventually failed, to not pass his car (rego transfer from WA) because the spare wheel on the back obscured the brake light from a particular angle.

The only way to get permits for mods such as intercooler, pod, coilovers etc in SA is to get an engineers report, even then, regency can still refuse to pass the vehicle - they do things a bit different over here. You can even get the vehicle passed by regency, but you wont get permits off them - gotta be an engineers report.

And the worst part is that they wont even tell you if they think the mod will be passed (if you apply in writing on the official application) they just say you need to bring it in after its done. Then if they decide they wont allow it (once again even with engineers cert), you just gotta remove the mod or deregister the vehicle.

They dont make it easy.

I was just hoping to find a way, say if the vehicle could have reports/permits made up interstate, that regency might let it go without the exorbitant expense of full ADR compliance engineers reports.

Something you may find funny too, the engineer that I spoke too said that if the car doesnt meet emissions standards they can always fit an air pump to bring the values into line .... sort of makes a joke of the whole process, but that is an acceptable method, as long as the emissions meet specs.

Steve I thought here if it was ok you didnt need a engineers certificate to pass for things like pods,coolers, coilovers etc. I know plenty who have got through with pods/cooler. You only need a certificate for engine conversions and major mods. But it think it depends on the person.

Originally posted by Clint32

..... But it think it depends on the person.

I do believe that is the bottom line.

In WA you can get permits for mods, so when Mr Plod takes a closer look, you wont end up with a defect notice...basically this is what I want - the confidance to be able to be pulled up and not have to worry about a full regency inspection if I do.

Slip, by the sounds of it, I need to go to queensland:D

can aftermarket computers be mod plated ?

and can we drive around with them ? i have my EMS hand controller in a visible location so i dont want to get bum poked by a copper on a bad day if he see's it.

And who does mod plating in QLD. I got told of www.kcf-rallysport.com.au

they are doin work for a friend. any others?

WA has it sweeter... It cost me $50 odd for the car to be inspected at the pits (coz i got a yellow) then $25 odd for a mod permit... I got a permit for my POD, Vent to atmo BOV, exhaust, radius rods as well as a note on the permit saying that the exhaust and BOV were below acceptable dB levels... :)

The best bet in all cases is to speak with your local registration authority to find out who you should be talking too. There is so much BS bandied around in forums about what is and what is not legal because people dont bother to check with the people that know the rules for the state.

If you are in NSW you should talk to an engineering signatory, the RTA should be able to provide contact details (they have a list on their web site but I think its a bit out of date). If you are in or around Newcastle I can give details of a signatory who I am very happy with (very good with older cars).

Last time I checked a full engineering certificate with everything on the car modded (ie different engine, brakes, seats & mounts, steering, diff, wheels, seatbelts, x-members etc) was going to cost $330 but this was a year ago and there was talk of a price increase due to govt regulations.

Is there any chance of shopping around?

I had some contact with Paul Mullins who built RHR350 (Adelaide based). You could ask who did his engineering.

His contact details are at http://www.hr350.com2.info/

Its a good web page to have a look through as well.

Yeah, WA is quiet lax on most mods, the pits will allow most things no problems. Major mods like roll-cages etc need an engineers certificate.

In WA there planning on providing a rolling car test at Orbital, that will do a full emissions test for about $200. Much better than the $2000 they currently charge:(

yeh Mr Chan! I still have their official banner next to me. "Twice the Rice, Half The Price"

But the place brendan is getting his engineering thru looks alright.

My main concern is to find out if a 3L is legal in my car as it came standard with an RB20det.

Parts of the NSW guidelines....

Examples of minor (owner certified) modifications are:

*engine changes where the capacity increase is less than 15% above the maximum size engine available for the vehicle (providing no major structural modifications are necessary and where noise and/or exhaust emission ADRs apply, all standard equipment such as carburettors, exhaust systems, exhaust gas recirculating valves, oxygen sensors and catalytic convertors relating to noise and emission control are retained and operate correctly);

Engine modification

Original engine modified

Modifications to the original engine are permitted provided the following conditions are met:

*normal engine reconditioning within manufacturer’s limits is permitted;

*modifications must not affect compliance with any emission or noise related ADRs;

*all emission control equipment must be retained and functional;

*if the modifications result in a substantial increase in power, then the adequacy of other components to carry the increased power (brake performance, vehicle controllability and suspension systems etc.) as well as the vehicle’s continued compliance with the applicable ADRs must be considered.

Replacement engine

There are set engine capacity limits for a modified passenger car or passenger car derivative and these are set out in the table below. Owners should note that an engine might not be suitable even though it’s capacity falls within the specified limits. Owners are therefore advised to check details of a proposed engine conversion with an engineering signatory before commencing the work.

(I snipped out the relevant bit)

Mono constructed, 6cyl -

NA = weight(kg) x 4.82,

Turbo = weight(kg) x 4.0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...