Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Recently ive realised that my cars been making funny noises especially in the cold morning when turning the car on for the first time of the day. Problem is i don't know whether this sound was always there or not cuz its really not THAT loud enough to hear from inside the car.

What happened was, i was doing an oil change so my bonnet was open then i turned the car on to let the oil circulate, then when i turned it on i hear this short "crunching" sorta sound from the passengers side whereabouts the a/c thing is but couldn't precisely locate where its coming from. It happens everytime i turn the car on and on and slowly goes away till when the engine is completely warm. So please could anyone help with some suggestions or have had similar issues like mine and tell me what this is?

I would appreciate it alot as im in a tight budget go actually go see a mechanic for this at the moment as my rear bars been hit and need repairs :D

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220336-need-help/
Share on other sites

Does it sound like its coming from inside the dash or inside the engine bay. If its from your dash, its just something to do with your climate control. I can't remember exactly what it is, but it makes a crunching sound when you turn the car on. It will also make a crunching sound when you turn the climate control from a low temp to a high temp. You will only really hear these from inside the car. If this is it, then don't worry, it doesn't do any damage. Its just this little piece slipping, but it will all still work :blink:

If this is not it, then sorry :D Hope it helps anyway :D

Edited by NISZILA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220336-need-help/#findComment-3885564
Share on other sites

yep i know what your talking about...and yes it kinda sounds like that but louder when turning the car on, you can hear it from under the bonnet on the passengers side right next to where the BOV goes...

But thanks anyway, what do you mean by you can hear it inside your car when you turn the car on? cuz i don't think i heard anything from the dash when actually turning it on, i can only hear it from the dash when turning the climate control knob?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220336-need-help/#findComment-3886198
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...