Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Ok so when I rip off my turbo coolant lines again, I'm going to do a coolant change aswell.

I can't find any recommendations on the type of coolant to use, only that the R32 maintenance thread says use a 50:50 anti-freeze /anti-boil mix (I don't need anti-freeze, I'm in brisbane). Is this a glycol coolant? or non-glycol coolant? What ratio glycol (g/L)? Autobarn said that depending on engine/head material (cast iron vs alloy/aluminium) will need different types of coolant to stop corrosion, etc...

What brands do people use? I'm just looking at one of those 1L bottles that makes up to 10L.

Castrol?

Tectalloy (sp)?

Fixxxer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/
Share on other sites

Brisbane is colder than sydney in the morning!!!

Anyways to the point pickup some nulon mix up crap and some distilled water mix it up a little higher at 60:40 (60% nulon 40% WATER) \

NULON is recommended by alm,ost all mechanics

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/#findComment-3888388
Share on other sites

Brisbane is colder than sydney in the morning!!!

Anyways to the point pickup some nulon mix up crap and some distilled water mix it up a little higher at 60:40 (60% nulon 40% WATER) \

NULON is recommended by alm,ost all mechanics

Be careful mixing coolant stronger than 50:50. It's job is to prevent corrosion, lower the freezing point and raise the boiling point but it isn't as good at transfering heat as pure water. Making the mix too strong can reduce the effieciency of your cooling system.

Edited by _Scotty_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/#findComment-3888419
Share on other sites

I use,

TECTALOY 100 PLUS

Tectaloy 100 Plus is a pre-mixed 50% Anti Freeze/Anti Boil, ready to use second generation organic radiator coolant. Formulated for heavy duty long life use, it is designed to offer the maximum cooling system protection possible. Tectaloy 100 Plus is ideally suited to late model and high performance vehicles.

It is recommended as a replacement for factory fill coolants.

AUSTRALIAN STANDARD:

AS 2108-2004 "TYPE A"

COLOUR & LIFESPAN:

DARK GREEN, 4 YEARS/100,000 KMS

PART NO & PACK SIZE:

RETAIL: 1LT BOTTLE (TE1001L), 5LT BOTTLE (TE1005L)

TRADE: 20LT CONTAINER (TE10020L), 205LT DRUM (TE100205L)

20061027191924.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/#findComment-3888709
Share on other sites

According to Nulon more = better cooling properties.. I believe they suggest 70% for best cooling i.e race conditions Im not sure why (I may be wrong as its from memory - which has prooved several times to be pretty unreliable.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/#findComment-3889554
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...