Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Cluster Problem

chich0

By chich0,
in Other Nissan Imports

 Share

Recommended Posts

chich0 Newbie

chich0

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Got a cluster issue, every tacho works fine besides the rev tacho, it doesnt give the true reading and just jumps whereever it wants

Am i looking at a new cluster? or is this a simple fix?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 5 weeks later...
Slydwayz_00 Rookie

Slydwayz_00

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

Got a cluster issue, every tacho works fine besides the rev tacho, it doesnt give the true reading and just jumps whereever it wants

Am i looking at a new cluster? or is this a simple fix?

I have the same problem!! Someone must know??

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
chubs Community Regular

chubs

Posted
Posted (edited)

have u tried checking the connection in the back of the cluster to see if its loose or dirty? would start there i have same issue and its where ill be starting. im not in a rush though its only a tacho

Edited by chubs
Link to comment
Share on other sites
KhmeR33 Newbie

KhmeR33

Posted
Posted
have u tried checking the connection in the back of the cluster to see if its loose or dirty? would start there i have same issue and its where ill be starting. im not in a rush though its only a tacho

yeh i'll have a look if its loose or something but it radomly still works every now and then..true its only a tacho buts its annoying to see it going crazy

Link to comment
Share on other sites
chubs Community Regular

chubs

Posted
Posted

yeah it is abit annoying lol with mine if i hit the dash a lil it usually works again but with bumps on the road it dies. should be an easy fix i know tacho and speedo are pretty common drama in 33's though from what i have seen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted

bump this up.

k guys. my tacho stopped working thru a track day.

it will work when warming up but after a while it fails and drops down to 0.

if i hit a bump it will jump up...then back to zero.

My Power fc handcontroller tacho works fine......it leads me to believe its a wiring issue behind the cluster.. However it is all fine!!??

i have also replaced the whole dash cluster and this EXACT problem still persists. i have also checked all my fuses.....and they are fine

ANY HELP OUT THERE GUYS.??

i have used contact cleaner to clean the ecu pins, and the ignition module in the engine bay, and still hasnt fixed the issue.

its getting VERY frustrating !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KhmeR33 Newbie

KhmeR33

Posted
Posted

i havent found a proper fix yet for my tacho but i notice by taking of the plastic cover off and pushing my gauge on the bottom right corner of it, it will work again. maybe i need a new tacho but i'm gonna drive around with the plastic cover off for now untill i get a new tacho. Not sure if it will work for you cuz my one was just shaking all over the place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau

      By Duncan · Posted

      In other important race car news, instead of fixing the race car I changed the crank seals on the chainsaw, because wood burner Some damn tight (and lock tighted) m6 head bolts Who knew plastic crank cases were a thing! Quick tip, don't trust the youtube videos that say you can pull the old seals out with the head on in a husky 440e...not true, their crank seal tucks in behind the cover both sides. I'm not sure I'm a psychopath, but these things are damn loud....hope I can put all the bits back in the right place    Happily, it is now back to turning fallen trees into a combination of firewood logs and wood chips....just need a clear day to get into it properly
    • Murray_Calavera
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment
    • Duncan
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Duncan · Posted

      Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.
    • Duncan
      Arm ball joint

      By Duncan · Posted

      No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm
    • Duncan
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, 2 months later, I just couldn't see any way to be happy with that tank setup. Basically the baffle area is too big and too leaky, the sender was miles off and the no low fuel light thing really bugs me. Other than the fact the fuel hat could safely supply enough power to the pump, it was worse than factory. Biggest thing that bugged me is it would still run out of fuel in medium-high g corners from about 1/4 tank down which is annoying when you are trying to have a zoom, not to mention potentially engine killing if it gets just the right amount of lean-ness....and we've got a few of those corners in our round trip to town (well, bunnings...) So, credit to Frenchy's, they have put together a much better designed setup with what is effectively an in tank surge setup.   As it happens the actual hat is the same, so I switched the fittings across, re-used the single 525 pump, and added a spare pierburg lift pump that I had (must remember to replace that stock, it was a spare for the race car). The only real work to get it all done was to add a second power and earth to the hat which I did by going from a single output to double output relay (very low draw on the lift pump) and also the sender unit that clips into the factory pump holder was again way too loose (so I re-used the 2mm shims from the previous setup). Finally, I added the low fuel light sender from the factory cradle. So....I'll report back how it handles low fuel, and if the sender has any relation to actual fuel level in the tank....
×
×
  • Create New...