Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Cluster Problem

chich0
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...
Slydwayz_00 Rookie

Slydwayz_00

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

Got a cluster issue, every tacho works fine besides the rev tacho, it doesnt give the true reading and just jumps whereever it wants

Am i looking at a new cluster? or is this a simple fix?

I have the same problem!! Someone must know??

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
chubs Community Regular

chubs

Posted
Posted (edited)

have u tried checking the connection in the back of the cluster to see if its loose or dirty? would start there i have same issue and its where ill be starting. im not in a rush though its only a tacho

Edited by chubs
KhmeR33 Newbie

KhmeR33

Posted
Posted
have u tried checking the connection in the back of the cluster to see if its loose or dirty? would start there i have same issue and its where ill be starting. im not in a rush though its only a tacho

yeh i'll have a look if its loose or something but it radomly still works every now and then..true its only a tacho buts its annoying to see it going crazy

chubs Community Regular

chubs

Posted
Posted

yeah it is abit annoying lol with mine if i hit the dash a lil it usually works again but with bumps on the road it dies. should be an easy fix i know tacho and speedo are pretty common drama in 33's though from what i have seen.

  • 2 weeks later...
r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted

bump this up.

k guys. my tacho stopped working thru a track day.

it will work when warming up but after a while it fails and drops down to 0.

if i hit a bump it will jump up...then back to zero.

My Power fc handcontroller tacho works fine......it leads me to believe its a wiring issue behind the cluster.. However it is all fine!!??

i have also replaced the whole dash cluster and this EXACT problem still persists. i have also checked all my fuses.....and they are fine

ANY HELP OUT THERE GUYS.??

i have used contact cleaner to clean the ecu pins, and the ignition module in the engine bay, and still hasnt fixed the issue.

its getting VERY frustrating !!!

KhmeR33 Newbie

KhmeR33

Posted
Posted

i havent found a proper fix yet for my tacho but i notice by taking of the plastic cover off and pushing my gauge on the bottom right corner of it, it will work again. maybe i need a new tacho but i'm gonna drive around with the plastic cover off for now untill i get a new tacho. Not sure if it will work for you cuz my one was just shaking all over the place.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • niZmO_Man
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...