Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, You might of read that ive been having some problems with my gearbox. Anyway ive tried alot of things. Ive put Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil in there, After about 500kms it hasn't fixed it, Ive tried changing slower, Changing faster.. Giving it a little rev inbetween gears.. And i honestly don't no whats left other then them ripping my box out to see if its my clutch.. Cause lately it doesn't wanna get 1st in the mornings i have to let the clutch in out in out and keep trying to get it in, Its the same with reverse, Before it just had a slight grind going in to 3rd.. Probably once in 8 times.. Now it will do it once in about 5 or 6.. and now its started doing it going in to second from first.. So its definitely getting worse, Has anyone else had this problem or know anything that it could be?

It shouldn't be the clutch because its high up the peddle.. The clutch is a new HD 6 PUK Ceramic clutch. I cant just take it back to the place either cause a mate of mine did it

and i haven't been out to get in to contact with him since -_-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221163-rb25-gearbox-still-grinding/
Share on other sites

Hey all, You might of read that ive been having some problems with my gearbox. Anyway ive tried alot of things. Ive put Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil in there, After about 500kms it hasn't fixed it, Ive tried changing slower, Changing faster.. Giving it a little rev inbetween gears.. And i honestly don't no whats left other then them ripping my box out to see if its my clutch.. Cause lately it doesn't wanna get 1st in the mornings i have to let the clutch in out in out and keep trying to get it in, Its the same with reverse, Before it just had a slight grind going in to 3rd.. Probably once in 8 times.. Now it will do it once in about 5 or 6.. and now its started doing it going in to second from first.. So its definitely getting worse, Has anyone else had this problem or know anything that it could be?

It shouldn't be the clutch because its high up the peddle.. The clutch is a new HD 6 PUK Ceramic clutch. I cant just take it back to the place either cause a mate of mine did it

and i haven't been out to get in to contact with him since -_-

have you given thought to the fact ya g/box might be on its way out grinding inbetween gearchanges suggest to me the synchro;s are heading south for the winter redline oil is just a patch up at the best of times if its worn its worn oil wont fix that sounds like rebuild time to me

whats left other then them ripping my box out

:down:

Yeah i've got rough synchros too. I doubt fresh oil will fix it. If you've tried everything you might have to live with it until you can get a 'box rebuild. Fresh synchros, dude it will basically be a brand new box and change very smooth.

Have you considered the clutch fork is screwed? The slave cylinder is also known to be a common weak link the in RB25 box, there's plenty of threads discussing it. That *may* make changing gears harder.

GL with it mate.

Im still kinda a newb with cars =( Im not sure were the master or slave cylinders are, I have checked the clutch fluid and its on the level sign ( the full sign ).. But if it would make any difference.. When i let the clutch out.. i hear this kinda clunk.. like the clutch is engaging but really loudly.. and thats just letting it out, it doesn't even have to be in gear.. a mate of mine said its a something bearing in the gearbox i forgot what he called it lol.

Im not sure if thats what your talking about R33boy.

Ok! The Master and slave cylinders are fine.. When i went to Exhaust Tec today, Mark checked over them for me cause i told him the problem i had while he was fixing my exhaust. And i asked him if he new what the problem could be, and he pretty much said drive it till it brakes and don't worry to much about it till then, cause there a strong box.. Lol. So i don't no where to go from now :blink::P

Edited by Shadex

Buy an $8 bottle of brake fluid and do it your self with from memory a size 10 or 8 small ringy.

First off I usually suck the fluid out of the reservoir then refill and then drip bleed. So crack the master cyls nipple (if it has one) and drip bleed until the fluid is clear; then do the same for the center box thing if your skyline has it and then finally the slave cyl. Once fluid is nice and clear get some one in the car pumping the pedal; hold the pedal to the floor then crack the bleed nipple on the slave cyl until just before fluid stops exiting the nipple; then have th person pump the pedal again and repeat.. Make sure you keep the master cyl full of fluid. :bunny:

Ok, Update.. Im going to get the lines done when i take it to boostworx next week cause they have to do some work on my car anyhow. But.. I have noticed lately.. Its been getting harder to get in to gears.. and if i take off fast in first for example, i clutch to go to second it feels like im yanking it out of gear with no clutch.. its a really rough feel like a jerk as it comes out.

So im wondering if i borght a dodgey clutch :S

my gearbox was feeling a bit wierd it use to crunch from 1st to 2nd at high revs, then that stopped and it started happening between 2nd to 3rd at high revs, now today i was just driving normally changed from 2nd to 3rd and bang, so defently pull your box out and get it rebuilt, its a bitch when it gores driving normally,

JV

The same thing On my box................... Redline shock proof is no fix neither is Royal purple

I changing oil to Castrol VMX80 and see if going back to basics will help

some times normal oils is suited better

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...