Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I was wondering if someone can help me out with a issue im having.

My abs light has turned on. I have checked all fuses and they seem fine.. Checked under the car if the sensors are loose etc..

Dont know what else to check really.. Oh done the slam the brakes and try and lock up thing.. abs didnt work or kick back in..

SO

I was wondering if i could borrow the consult cable or if i can come to you?

Will be greatly apprieacted. Probably wont take long. Just need to find the error code.

Thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221250-nissan-consult-cablesoftware-thingy/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem. Bought a second hand ABS pump off the forums and put it in. Problem solved.

Consult cable should tell you the exact cause though. Sensors going bad is another common cause I think.

I had the same problem. Bought a second hand ABS pump off the forums and put it in. Problem solved.

Ohh really? Whered you get a 2nd pump from?

I will check the sensors first.. Well i will see what the error codes are first and go from there

How mcuh was the pump anyways?

From my hazy memory it was $80 or so

Edit: Yep... just looked it up:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ab...l&hl=module

Supposedly from what that guy said in that thread they are $4500 new... I find that hard to believe... Maybe the whole kit is, but not just the pump/motor!

I will check my error code first.. then check if its the relay..

If not, then will try and source a pump thingy.. You got a pic of this btw?? What does it look it lol

I have access to a 33 gtr abs unit lol.. If worst comes to worst will this fit into my car? lol

It looks like this (circled)

post-23673-1141805971.jpg

It's that whole unit.

Surely you'll be able to find one in one of the wrecking threads, or post up a WTB thread. Get the error code before you go to too much trouble though. It could just be a dirty sensor!

Yep, thats the abs "module". I -think- it incorporates the hydraulic motor (or "pump" if you want to call it that) as well.

That unit circled is the bit that I bought for $80. I chucked it in and my ABS light disappeared so that whole unit was the problem in my case.

This is exactly what was written on the invoice for the brake place I took mine too when they diagnosed the fault:

"Scan ABS Module for fault codes. Code 21 - ABS Motor. Checked ABS wheels sensors for operation, all ok on current data. Suspected faulty ABS motor unit"

Ah that makes sense.. just wasnt sure what you meant by pump..

I will try and get the error code first and see how i go!!

Just happened out of know-where.. Turned on the car one night to go home (been raining that day and previous day) and the light came on..

Could be coz of the rain.. making the sensors go faulty.. hmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...