Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The plugs can be any brand?

But most used are NGK?

Waiting for shops to open and hoping the rain holds off.

So, 2 options comments have given me:

BCPR6ES 0.8

BKR6E 0.8

Whats the difference?

Edited by Owgasm

Well,

All fitted, everything back together.

Tried to start it up, same problem.

But this time, i think i may have found the problem.

While tightening with the allen key, i dropped it into a small gap and while i was getting it out, the injector rail was starring right back at me, all injectors were a bit dusty and dry except one which looked like it had petrol running from it. Didn't really think about it, then got the allen key out, then had a closer look at the 5th injector.

Got the keys, tried to start it up.

No luck, went back and checked the injector, definitly petrol coming out of it and it was hissing, a leak.

Could this be the solution?

Loss of pressure/loss of fuel?

Also, with this problem, will it be just the o ring or the injector itself?

Edited by Owgasm

I'd expect the engine to at least start and run on only 5. Might be a bit WReXxy, but should still run.

But it's not a good sign to have fuel leaking from an injector. Should get them checked out. Best case, it can be repaired, and all 6 can be cleaned and flowed. Worst case, 6 new injectors on the shopping list.

Yeah, i'm still unsure why it didn't start, but i pulled the injectors out while i was at it and the o ring on the 5th was split.

New O-rings for all 6 and see how it is from there.

I still don't think this will be the solution, but i hope it will be.

Btw, anyone know what size the o rings are for the injectors?

Edited by Owgasm

Forget the timing belt if everything sounds normal when your cranking it. If it was broken you would know about it! I had a feeling fouled up plugs wouldnt stop a modern day EFI engine from firing and at least running rough. The injector leak will just be that o-ring but as you mentioned i also doubt it will be the actual cause of no start, just rough running. Make sure when you refit the injectors you put some vaseline on the o-rings to spot them from getting cut.

So next off you should check that you actually have spark like i previously mentioned on page one. Also think back to last time you had it running, did you do anything to the car? Anything at all.. the smallest thing you may not even take into account could be the culprit :thumbsup:

Good luck mate

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32

Yeah, i don't think theres anything wrong with the timing belt.

Everything sounds to be smooth. Just doesn't fire.

Yeah, i should have checked the spark while i was at it but am not 100% sure on how to do it. So was hoping that the spark plugs were dead.

The last time it was running, it was reveresed down a hill and driven back up, a few times like this to clean the rotors and just give it a bit of flow through the engine.

Next step to check for the spark.

Are there step directions in the forums?

Thanks for helping everyone.

Esp, Daren.

Edited by Owgasm
Next step to check for the spark.

Are there step directions in the forums?

Thanks for helping everyone.

Esp, Daren.

Buy yourself a spark plug lead, plug 1 end of lead to coil pack, other end to your spark plug, then ground the thread of the spark plug on the block, or the massive hook usually on a motor, then have a friend turn the engine over, you should see a nice blue or white spark from the plug.

For the injectors, there is a plug you can buy, which you plug onto the injector lead and again have a friend turn the engine over, and the plug has an LED in it, which will light up if there is any voltage through the lead (if the injector lead is presenting a pulse).

For the injector plug, you need to immobilise the motor from firing and possibly starting, reason is, with an injector unplugged, if the engine does fire, you will farily quickly roast your cylinder from the spark plug firing.

B.

hi, I had the exact same problem. I have a r32 gtr and I don't get the opportunity to drive it much at all. I take my car for a quick blat around the street then park it up. I do this once a week if i can, a bit like your self. Sometimes i had to jumpstart the car to get it started .

Then 1 weekend i went to drive it and it wouldn't start so i jumped it no joy then tried to push start it still no joy.

Then i checked to see if it was getting fuel to the injectors cause i heard the fuel pump like yourself, but no, I was getting fuel.

I checked spark that was all good to.

I even replaced the spark plugs and coil packs just to be sure.

In between checking I had changed the battery three times with 3 known good ones this still didn't start my car.

In the end I ran out of ideas and put the car on a trailer and sent it to my local tuner he fixed it in 2 mins flat it was the f@!#ing battery. He put a brand new one in and it started first go. To this day I still do not understand why my car didn't sart with the other batteries because they all started my other cars fine. (all had 12v)

Hope this helps.

""Pull a plug out (check plug condition while your there) and connect it into the coil while also earth it on the head next to the spark plug hole. Easiest way to do this is to get a HT lead and connect one end to the coil where the spark plug normally goes and the other end to the top of the spark plug."" - From Deren

Ok. This is what i read:

1. Pull the first spark plug out.

2. Take the coil off and plug it onto the spark plug with the cables all still connected to the coil.

3. (not so clear about this part) - Hold the spark plug while its touching the head (anywhere?).

4. Get someone to try to start the car and watch for a spark

Is this right?

The fuel i am sure is in the rail as i could see it bubbling trying to exit through the injector seal.

Someone said on the forums, that i only need to check the first? If the first is sparking, the rest will aswell.

Edited by Owgasm

Yeah thats pretty much right, most likely if one is firing the rest will be and you will at least be getting a splutter when you try to start it. Best not to hold the coil while your cranking it as you can get a bit of a shock from the ignition system :) Just rest it down next to the spark plug hole and shade the area so you can see the spark if there is one. Like i said if you need a hand im happy to help :)

Deren

Perfect.

Yeah, thanks for the help :P

Will let you know if i need help. But your description sounds easy enough.

Anyone know the size of the o ring on the injector?

I don't want to match it up, i want exact size when i go to a supplier.

Where do you get them from? Nut and bolt store? i've gotten them once but can't remember where it was.

Cheers.

DOES IT ACTUALLY SOUND OK when cranking it over??? I cant hear it!

Anyway, what about CAS, is that goosed.

IMO.. it would at least kick if even on a few cylinders if it were the plugs!!..

Why is everyone so completely sure its the plugs that are the root cause.. just by the info I can glean from all this, there has only been speculation about plugs.. which, to be honest are pretty damn reliable in this century.

Lets just sit back a little here, and work the problem...

Not firing...

Is there an immobiliser fitted?

Is there gas in the tank?

Is there 1 meagre spark from one of the coils, or any of them,, simply unscrew it, hang a plug out of it and see?

Just basic starters, then work from there... or is this real?

Battery would not be the cause, mine has cranked... and fired on a very low charge, so much so it even amazed me.

QED.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...