Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

As title says its a dec 95 model Black manual, has done 83,000km's (imported with 73.500km's!! Basically driven to and from work only, bout 35km's a day) I am the first owner in aus. I have spent a lot of money on it since i got my liscence in feb, basically all mod's except for the air filter were put on by me since then. Oil changes every 3,000km's with Penzoil Race Synthetic with Penazene addative. Mods include:

-17*8" Gradu racing rims

-Custom ATP T03/4 turbo

-Custom AVO bar and plate front mounted intercooler with polished mandrel bent alloy piping, no welded joins (cooler polished aswell) and Hose Techniques blue silicon joins

-3" dump pipe off turbo to cat into a genuine 3" Fujitsubo LegalisR exhaust

-K&N M's high power air filter

-HKS turbo timer

-AUtometer ultra-lite pro comp gauges

-Custom alloy catch can all polished with braided fittings

-Razo race gear knob and Razo race pedals

-Custom dash switch panel covered in pearl white vinyl.

-Odyssey dry cell battery

-Nismo belt pads on all belts, and Nismo hand brake pad

-Pioneer head unit, front splits, 6*9's running off 600wAmp, boot wired ready for big sub set up, previously had a huge system in it, and have left all brand new cabling ready for new subs/amps. Also has false floor fitted with all panels and wheel well filled with dacron to kill dead sound and improve sound quality.

Also had the timing belt and all axilery belts changed, front urethane castor rod bushes and a new o2 sensor fitted so she is absolutely puuuuuuuuuurring!!. Also now has 12 months of reg to... so can't complain at all peoples!!

http://www.angelfire.com/co3/thegrub1/inde...dexskypics.html

I am askin $20,500 with RWC and 12 months reg!! BARGAIN!!If interested, and can meet in Melbourne to view. I am looking to get rid of it asap, she is one of the best round, trust me!!

http://octane.nt4.com/firesport/ind...on=show&id=2730

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22141-modded-95-m-spec-r33/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...