Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Could someone please give me some reliable info on the materials used in the stock turbo on my Series 1 R33 GTSt?

I have read many posts and have looked at many site all over the net and i get conflicting stories everywhere.

I have heard that series ones have steel turbines on one page and ceramic on the next, also max safe boost levels seem to fluctuate between 10 psi and 14psi.

Someone please help as i would really like to know for sure.

Thanks

Gary

Ceramic turbos are used on all models of Skylines, max safe boost for good turbo life is 12PSI. Although I've heard of many people running higher than this but 12PSI is the max suggested boost level.

32godzilla, Not quite true, there are some Skylines (R34's) that have plastic turbines.

Safe boost is a difficult question. Stock boost is safe, anything above that can reduce the lifespan of the turbo. Most people will run 12psi quite happily. I have run up to 17psi in mine and it's still attached:D

Both S1 & S2 R33 turbos use ceramic turbine. However it is said that in S2 the compressor wheel has been replaced by plastic (polymer?) in order to reduce weight and allow the S2 turbo to spool up faster & earlier. Exhaust wheels are still ceramic as plastic won't stand the heat.

I was under the impression R34 had a plastic compressor also. I think the better the intercooling the higher boost that can be run safetly. Most turbo failures I have seen and experienced come from very high speed 105,000 rpm plus and also the onset of detenation which causes the turbine to unbalance, touch the exhaust housing and snap off the shaft. Extra heat in the exhaust housing causes the metal to expand and reduce to turbine to housing tolerance. I am under the impression boring out the turbine housing slightly(0.5mm) will vastly improve reliablity and only slightly increase lag. I haven't seen any actually come un-glued as some people put it.

Many many many gts-t's have had the turbine wheel break up or fly off entirely and play friendly-like with their catalytic converter.

This is because of the way in which the ceramic wheel on the exhaust side is bonded to the shaft, (some kind of epoxy??). It either delaminates and detaches from the shaft or bits fly right off and imbalance the turbo dramatically. :D **

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...