Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I just purchased this car, and I was interested in what the comments at the bottom left of the auction sheet say....

more than happy with this one: '03 manual Premium with 10800km on the clock. Grade 4.5A. It is easier to buy a donor car to get the Chargespeed car passed than to hope the parts I have people set aside for me to rent would still be there. As it turns out, I ended up getting a car that was so much better than what I thought would be available for the budget I set. I am ecstatic!

Cheers,

Micah

post-39451-1212102137_thumb.jpg

thats awesome to get a 4.5A. how much did it set you back?

Don't really want to advertise what I paid, suffice to say I have seen auto non-premiums with more km sell for more... it was a complete gamble: we low-balled the price, and won! It probably helps that it was freezing and pouring at the auctions yesterday, and there were very few buyers still there when the car came up. I would have been happy with a basic auto, and I got an absolute gem :D

congrats on the purchase mate! got any pics?

its off topic, but are these genuine Ks? I mean I bought mine with 26k km on the clock, looking at the wear on the peddles i think it's probably done double or even triple the amount... i mean do japs really drive this little? when I was in japan, everyone drove out to everywhere... especially if u live outside the main cities...

congrats on the purchase mate! got any pics?

its off topic, but are these genuine Ks? I mean I bought mine with 26k km on the clock, looking at the wear on the peddles i think it's probably done double or even triple the amount... i mean do japs really drive this little? when I was in japan, everyone drove out to everywhere... especially if u live outside the main cities...

Looks to be genuine, from interior wear, lack of gutter rash, etc.... but it was raining in the photos, making it hard for any scratches to be seen. That said, even if the k's weren't genuine, it's a grade 4.5A: it's super tidy in any case.

post-39451-1212109563_thumb.jpgpost-39451-1212109581_thumb.jpg

post-39451-1212109597_thumb.jpgpost-39451-1212109617_thumb.jpg

post-39451-1212109642_thumb.jpgpost-39451-1212109667_thumb.jpg

Micah, there's not much written on there, it does mention rust under the car - might pay to check it before it leaves for Australia. I know exactly where you bought it from, and they are notorious for giving high gradings to cars with rust. Fingers crossed it's only minor.

Edited by Iron Chef
Micah, there's not much written on there, it does mention rust under the car - might pay to check it before it leaves for Australia. I know exactly where you bought it from, and they are notorious for giving high gradings to cars with rust. Fingers crossed it's only minor.

Yeah: I have photos of the underbody rust: it's all aesthetic, and minor at that: will clean up easily...

Thanks for that Chef!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...