Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my climate control module in my r32gtr adjusts from 18deg to 32deg however on 18deg it is cold...as soon as i go above this temperature (i.e. 19deg +) it is hot.

i cant seem to get a warm setting - could it be a fuse or maybe there is a control valve under the dash which needs attention?

this is just on a fan setting without the use of air con as my condensor & radiator fan for the a/c has been removed.

thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221714-air-con-climate-control-temperature/
Share on other sites

Hrmm, I think my car's acting like this as well. I'll try and suss it out tomorrow and report back. When it's on 21 degrees, it's really burning up inside the car. It could be that my valve is stuck on the hot setting though, haven't actually checked yet.

I'll let you know what happens.

Hrmm, I think my car's acting like this as well. I'll try and suss it out tomorrow and report back. When it's on 21 degrees, it's really burning up inside the car. It could be that my valve is stuck on the hot setting though, haven't actually checked yet.

I'll let you know what happens.

I have the same problem. will be watching this thread with interest..

-D

Sorry, I can't help with any news today guys. I don't actually drive my car so can't take it out for a spin to warm the engine up. I've got to wait for one of my parents to give it a drive (P plater and turbo = fines and loss of points). I'll check out what's going on when my mum gets home from work in it.

wat happens wen u turn it to 20? or 25? does it get even hotter?

as soon as i go above 18deg (i.e. 24deg) it feels like it gets warmer but then it gets really hot after 30sec or so...i then try back it off and its still madness hot!

i keep dropping the temp down towards 18deg & it stays really hot - as soon as i get to 18deg it will then stay just as hot - it takes a good 5min for it to come back to cold on 18deg.

how does the temperature adjuster work? if its like my other cars it will have a tap which adjusts how much water comes thru the radiator under the dash, is this is the case i'd think this is playing up, could be dirty or getting stuck...can anyone confirmation the location of this tap if this is the case?

I hopefully have an answer for you.

My R34 has a small grill on the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel.

Behind it is some sort of temperature sensor.

When i changed my LED lights i forgot to plug this back in, and presto my climate control would be freezing cold to hot in .5 of a degree on the digital cluster.

Plugged this sensor back in and all returned to normal.

So no doubt your 32 has a similar unit, and it may have stuffed up/broken/not be plugged in and be causing it to act like my climate control did?

I hopefully have an answer for you.

My R34 has a small grill on the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel.

Behind it is some sort of temperature sensor.

When i changed my LED lights i forgot to plug this back in, and presto my climate control would be freezing cold to hot in .5 of a degree on the digital cluster.

Plugged this sensor back in and all returned to normal.

So no doubt your 32 has a similar unit, and it may have stuffed up/broken/not be plugged in and be causing it to act like my climate control did?

i also have a grill which sits on the centre console - are you referring to the grill which has a black hose that plugs in the grill & its about 1cm in diameter???

i also installed led lights in my dash so yes i will definitely check this out later today...i think by memory next to this grill there is also an electrical plug hmmmm

hi guys,

here's an update...i ran thru the entire diagnostics section as per the gtr manual (steps 1-6) & everything comes up fine!

i did notice in step 2 that the number to appear if normal should be '20' & mine displayed '25' (keeping in mind that i performed this test at night in my garage)

it also states though if car is positioned in dark area or exceptionally strong sunlight that the 'sunload sensor' error may appear which is number '25' (this is the result i got) so other than that it seems ok...what else could this be if the diagnostics came up 100% good???

Mine does the same.

Where is the sunload sensor??

Apparently there is also a sensor in front of the radiator.

Shaun.

im not sure myself - there is a pic in the manual but it is poor quality - my guess is that the sunload sensor is the round thing on top of the dash on the left side...

can anyone confirm the location of the sunload sensore?

My air con does the same thing (cold when on 18, hot on everything else). It also pumps hot air out the dash vents where it use to only heat from foot wells and cool through dash vents.

Now this could be related or coincidental but mine faulted as soon as I put in my power fc....haven't put the stock ecu back in to prove that this is the case. But im sure if this was an issue everyone with a pfc would have made comment.

Diagnostics also come back with all sensors working correctly. (return air hose is definitely also attached to the dash)

Cheers

Camden

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...