Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well seeing that i smashed my box on saturday this OS gear set is looking like a very nice option. A few questions... Seeing that greenline have the 5 speed set cheaper then the 3 gear set... can i order the 5 and just replace it with my stock 5th? What speed are you doing at 8000 RPM with stock 4.111 diffs in each gear?

Paul.... any issues with it?

Not sure about replacing the the 5th gear with an OEM, but I don't why you would unless your heading for a land speed record. Looking at the ratios I would expect the OSG kit would be pretty handy for the drags. Sorry I did the calcs in miles. Still in the drag racing mind set I guess :D

OEM gears with 17inch tyres. 8000rpm

1st - 47

2nd- 78

3rd - 116

4th - 151

5th - 201mph

OSG gears with 17inch wheels. 8000rpm

1st - 56

2nd- 89

3rd - 122

4th - 151

5th - 182mph

Not sure about replacing the the 5th gear with an OEM, but I don't why you would unless your heading for a land speed record. Looking at the ratios I would expect the OSG kit would be pretty handy for the drags. Sorry I did the calcs in miles. Still in the drag racing mind set I guess :laugh:

OEM gears with 17inch tyres. 8000rpm

1st - 47

2nd- 78

3rd - 116

4th - 151

5th - 201mph

OSG gears with 17inch wheels. 8000rpm

1st - 56

2nd- 89

3rd - 122

4th - 151

5th - 182mph

What tyre profile is that based on?

Not sure about replacing the the 5th gear with an OEM, but I don't why you would unless your heading for a land speed record. Looking at the ratios I would expect the OSG kit would be pretty handy for the drags. Sorry I did the calcs in miles. Still in the drag racing mind set I guess :geek:

Only reason being.... driving down the freeway at 120km/h theres no reason for the motor to be spinning at 3600RPM (or close enough to it). If anything i'd want to make the 5th taller.... it has enough grunt to push the tall gear.

What tyre profile is that based on?

From memory it was a 45....bugger I need to do the calcs again lol

Only reason being.... driving down the freeway at 120km/h theres no reason for the motor to be spinning at 3600RPM (or close enough to it). If anything i'd want to make the 5th taller.... it has enough grunt to push the tall gear.

Fair enough. Hopefully someone might have the answer to the 5th gear question

Fair enough. Hopefully someone might have the answer to the 5th gear question

5th gear in the OS is a 0.826 compared to a 0.752 STD so not ideal for a highway cruiser

I no longer own my box as of today...she served me well and it was sad to see her go....sob...

Fully optioned PPG straight cut dog box going in though... it was a sensible upgrade as i was really testing the OS's limits.

Edited by DiRTgarage
34 box would prob be nicer for best of both worlds, closer gearing for speed and tall 6th gear for cruise...

I looked at that option but the number of posts referring to rebuilds scared me off. I'm planning on a 2.8 stroker next year so I thought i'd pass on it

5th gear in the OS is a 0.826 compared to a 0.752 STD so not ideal for a highway cruiser

I no longer own my box as of today...she served me well and it was sad to see her go....sob...

Fully optioned PPG straight cut dog box going in though... it was a sensible upgrade as i was really testing the OS's limits.

Paul, With the sort of work your R does I'd be looking at the dogbox too...9 sec pass, nice one :banana: . My R will still see the street more than the track for now but it will eventually become more track than street. Do you think it's possible to use the standard 5th gear with the OSG kit?

I looked at that option but the number of posts referring to rebuilds scared me off. I'm planning on a 2.8 stroker next year so I thought i'd pass on it

Paul, With the sort of work your R does I'd be looking at the dogbox too...9 sec pass, nice one :banana: . My R will still see the street more than the track for now but it will eventually become more track than street. Do you think it's possible to use the standard 5th gear with the OSG kit?

i did all of my 9 sec runs only using 3 gears...so yes 5th is not needed...either is 4th..lol

keep std 5th as it will be a better road car...its on the other side of the sandwich plate so i cant see it being an issue. Ill check with Terry (Award Diff and Gearbox) on Monday for you as im no gearbox expert (its white mans magic).

Edited by DiRTgarage
Thanks for that

Right...the answer is the following and i will quote the ever helpfull Trish..."you buy the 5 speed kit which includes all gears and the uprated input shaft and you dont fit the 5th gear. You can then use the 5th gear for whatever you want...you could make an ashtray out of it, you could put it up a flagpole or whatever you want with it" end quote...lol

:)

they copped about 4 phone calls from some impatient people today wanting to know this imformation, but couldnt wait for me to post it here.

Edited by DiRTgarage
^^^ Excellent. Just what I was after. 5 speed kit here we come :)

Paul... in your box did you use the OS centre plate?

No the STD sandwich plate was used in mine.

Andrew id say a 5th gear cock ring would become a 5th gear ankle bracelet over time...lol

Right...the answer is the following and i will quote the ever helpfull Trish..."you buy the 5 speed kit which includes all gears and the uprated input shaft and you dont fit the 5th gear. You can then use the 5th gear for whatever you want...you could make an ashtray out of it, you could put it up a flagpole or whatever you want with it" end quote...lol

:)

they copped about 4 phone calls from some impatient people today wanting to know this imformation, but couldnt wait for me to post it here.

hahaha not guilty. Thanks Paul :) ...OEM fifth cog sounds like a plan. Anyone know if I can use an OSG 5th cog on a 1989 HKS flag pole or do I need more parts??? :ermm:

A 5th gear cock ring would go down a treat!!

No..No, I don't think I'll be doing that; but thanks for that disturbing yet inventive suggestion

Well my mate back home opened up the goodies...

Here's the gear set...porn! Please excuse the frangipanis lol .

CopyofGearSet.jpg

and I got some decals...woowho :D

CopyofDecals.jpg

...and this is a parts list. Anyone hazard a guess as to what the non Part numbers mean and which parts go with what box???

CopyofOSGPartsList.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...