Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im finishing off my Laufiro with rb30det at the moment and now am at the stage where i need to get it certified (im in NZ).

Im going to fail badly due to my crap breaking setup.

I can get a setup from an r32 or r33 skyline reasonably cheap, however while im at it id also like to do a 5 stud conversion.

I know the s14/s15 hubs work but they are selling for around 400NZD a pair. Ive also been told C35 laurel hubs fit.

What have you guys done setup wise?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221837-cefiro-brake-upgrades/
Share on other sites

If you want 5 stud hubs, use s14/15 at the front, and R32/33 at the rear.

Brakes, have to use skyline brakes on the rear due to the handbrake setup.

Best to use skyline or Z32 brakes upfront because they are alloy (as opposed to the S14/15 cast iron).

If I were you I'd be going with R33 brakes. I'm running R33 brakes on my ceffy but still 4 stud, just redrilled the rotors.

  • 7 months later...
If you want 5 stud hubs, use s14/15 at the front, and R32/33 at the rear.

Brakes, have to use skyline brakes on the rear due to the handbrake setup.

Best to use skyline or Z32 brakes upfront because they are alloy (as opposed to the S14/15 cast iron).

If I were you I'd be going with R33 brakes. I'm running R33 brakes on my ceffy but still 4 stud, just redrilled the rotors.

Bumping an old thread here, but someone is offering me a set of 4 R33 GTS-T brakes/callipers/discs.

Other than redrilling the discs, is there any special effort involved in fitting these or do they just bolt straight on.

Does the fact that I have an AWD Cefiro make a difference? Would it also be wise to get an R33 master cylinder too?

i ended up going r32gtst all round. they bolt straight up with no modifications required at all bar the brake lines. Inside the brake line there is an olive that i pulled out. With this pulled out you can then screw in the banjo bolt with no problems.

just redrill rotors and your in business

Bumping an old thread here, but someone is offering me a set of 4 R33 GTS-T brakes/callipers/discs.

Other than redrilling the discs, is there any special effort involved in fitting these or do they just bolt straight on.

Does the fact that I have an AWD Cefiro make a difference? Would it also be wise to get an R33 master cylinder too?

I would quicker be looking at what R32-GTS4 owners did for big brakes rather than "regular" Cefiro owners. Thanks to having the double-wishbone setup it might be as simple of swapping the hubs/knuckle straight from a R33 GTS-T.

I would quicker be looking at what R32-GTS4 owners did for big brakes rather than "regular" Cefiro owners. Thanks to having the double-wishbone setup it might be as simple of swapping the hubs/knuckle straight from a R33 GTS-T.

Well this guy is breaking his R33 having crashed it, I don't want to go to 5-stud though as I have a nice set of 16" Momo Sport alloys so was planning on getting the discs drilled.

Swapping the hubs I understand but what the hell is a knuckle? Am I likely to be able to bolt the R33 callipers onto my existing setup? (I don't even have the car yet, it's still on a boat, so it's hard to check stuff) or is there more to it than that?

I'm going to pick up the brakes on Tuesday, and have also asked for the master cylinder, is there anything else I should ask him to pull off the car for me?

Well this guy is breaking his R33 having crashed it, I don't want to go to 5-stud though as I have a nice set of 16" Momo Sport alloys so was planning on getting the discs drilled.

Swapping the hubs I understand but what the hell is a knuckle? Am I likely to be able to bolt the R33 callipers onto my existing setup? (I don't even have the car yet, it's still on a boat, so it's hard to check stuff) or is there more to it than that?

I'm going to pick up the brakes on Tuesday, and have also asked for the master cylinder, is there anything else I should ask him to pull off the car for me?

Knuckle, the part that extends from the hub where the struts, tie rod and LCA bolt through (it comes with the hub but depending on where you're from or what cars you've worked on before it is sometimes described separate).

In your case, you should have the double wishbone setups that are native to Skylines so you'll have the upper and lower control arms as well as the tie-rod.

post-53074-1233792374_thumb.jpg

Courtesy Drift Works.

Back to the topic at hand. I'm not too familiar with the GTS4 and I would have loved to own a AWD A31 but as I said earlier look at what GTS4 owners use (they're the exact same thing as AWD A31's) when they do the GTR conversion. The R32 GTR conversion will definitely bolt up but they're a bit expensive. The R33GTS-T calipers/rotors are the exact same as the BNR32 calipers/rotors however I'm not 100% sure if the hubs are the same.

I for one will rather purchase new crappy wheels with my 5 stud brakes than use re-drilled rotors on my nice looking wheels but that just me. Can't help think that re-drilling is shoddy.

Goodluck with your build.

Edited by Conrad 2NR

BNR32 == R32 GTR? or GTS4? I'm pretty sure the N means AWD in Nissan chassis codes, but that's about it.

Thanks for the info though. I'm going in pretty much blind here since Ceffys are so rare in the UK and AWD ones are rare everywhere since everyone wants driftable ones. It doesn't help that this is my first Nissan, having previously owned a Subaru Legacy B4 where the front brakes and discs from a WRX just bolted straight on.

I do eventually plan on going 5 stud but that's not until a year or so down the line, right now I just want a reasonable brake upgrade since the Ceffy is supposed to use the same S13 brakes that S13 owners claim are pathetic on their cars, so must really be dreadful on a heavier Cefiro.

Edit: I might pop down to see the guy who looks after my GFs S13, since all he does is SX's, Silvias and Skylines and ask him to give me a shopping list. If the LNA31 Ceffy really is identical to the R32 GTS4 (are they 4 stud too?) then he should be able to answer.

Edited by Lum

Well I popped down to see the guy who is actually going to be fitting the thing, told him the LNA31 is the same as an R32 GTS4 and he reckons it'll be just fine (and then convinced me to buy a set of braided hoses designed for doing this conversion ;) )

Drilling the brake discs shouldn't be a problem either, he's done that many on S13s he has a rig built up for doing it properly.

Now I just have to hope the boat with my car on it hasn't sunk or whatever

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...