Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm driving to my girlfriend's house tonight. I'm accelerating up a rather steep hill in third, when at about 3000rpm my car suddenly loses all power. It's like it hit a rev limiter at 3000rpm. The exhaust starts making a loud, rapid popping noise and the car shudders slightly.

It scared the shit out of me. The car drives fine otherwise, but you push it even slightly and the same problem occures.

Any idea what's going on? Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222178-severe-power-loss/
Share on other sites

Sounds like an ignition problem. Check your plugs/leads/ignition coils.

There is also a possibility you could be using low octane/tainted fuel (mate of mine had a similar problem with his Maxima as you described, he drove it was nearly empty and re-fueled - problem went away).

So I'm driving to my girlfriend's house tonight. I'm accelerating up a rather steep hill in third, when at about 3000rpm my car suddenly loses all power. It's like it hit a rev limiter at 3000rpm. The exhaust starts making a loud, rapid popping noise and the car shudders slightly.

It scared the shit out of me. The car drives fine otherwise, but you push it even slightly and the same problem occures.

Any idea what's going on? Thanks.

could be your viscus hub cluctch is f**ked happend to me kinda same thing ...if you havent converted to a electro fan allready check when you cars off and cooled down if the big fan blade at the front of your car spins with ease if its stiff thats your prob if not dunno bro hhaahh. good luck

hmmm.. wot about your afm? if the plug has come out doesnt it barely get over 3 grand? and its "like theres a rev limiter at 3000rpm"

just a thought...

cuz if the car has gone blind in the amount of air its sucking in, I believe it would cough and splutter or possibly even shudder as you said... and the poping may be the fuel ratio getting too rich/lean... cuz the car has gone off the standard air/fuel maps and has gone crazy:P

Exact same thing happened to me,

RB25DE issue.

Spark plugs and Coils are your best bet, the car will shudder non stop as soon as you hit over 2500 or 3000 rpm.

It happened to me last week and freaked me out, got new platinum sparks and splitfire coils.

Works a treat !!

MRXTCZ

Plats were provided by DRC in Greenacre man, his a good bloke, Gil's his name director of DRC.

I called him up basically after telling him ive been reading and told him what the symptoms were, and his like yup. Sparks are gone, and known hassle is coils, one of fix !

I was like hektik!! i bought the coils, and he supplied the plats and full service.

Anyways, Kez, trust me bruh, when u goto ur mechanic and just get ur sparks done, then find out it doesnt fix it, then you gotta go hunt down splitfire coils, then go back to him and get charged again to get them into the RB25, its a mad headache ripping the top end off to just get into the god damn sparks and coils -.-

I was smart though, when i took it to DRC, i told Gil i need the car in 2 hours, he got 2 mechanics to work on it, and was done in less den an hour and a half. ;) sweeettt!!

Trust me, you wanna go the full 9 yards once your in there, so might aswell mod it now, and tick that one out of your lil Holy Mod Book!

But yeah, i saw a coil replacement guide on here, just a few threads below this one, you COULD do it yourself and save the labour costs, but in my opinion i would just get it down to a garage, not a normal petrol station garage, take it to one that knows their S**T bout' imports.

MRXTCZ

P.S Hahahahaha Cris!! THE MAN OF THE HOUR !! :)

Edited by MR_XTC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...