Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what should my car run E/T with good grip

R32 gtst mods are rb25 conversion ,fmic 600,300,70 hypergear kit ,turbo back exhaust 3"

blitz bov pod with cold air intake with head light out 12 psi with turbosmart boost T

tyes 255/40/17

should it do low 13

what do you guys think about a 12.9

i bet a typhoon they run 13.7 stock

Edited by RB SANDY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222538-what-should-my-car-run-et/
Share on other sites

u could look at a mid 13 to low 13 u mite be pushing any 12 but it all the driver and a good take off u could hav 2 drivers same car 1 get a 15 1 get a 13 so noone could giv u a good answer but the car should be capable of a mid 13

it is a how to guide but it is the driver. u could get a better time but have more power in a lighter car your next prob is traction. i got a 32 gtst when i ran mine had about 190 rwkw and ran a 13.5 but bad traction launched at to high revs. does the how 2 guide tell u what to launch at because what if 2 drivers do differant launch 1 at 4g and 1 at 7g they both goin to get 13.4. it just doesnt make sense but best way is run it u mite surprise yourself and get a 12 i hope u do. just run it a thew times each launch at diff revs to test it out

lol 40 profile on 17inch rims is only gonna get your mates going "pwoaahh sandy you got no traction down the quater" lol, get some nice street/racing slicks, and then what ever you run will only improve on the launching department, as your traction department will be covered...

when you do end up taking it out, post your time on here. i keep meaning to take mine out, but little things just keep going wrong.

got a boost leak at the moment.

before that it was the rear camber

and before that it was the clutch

and so on and so on.

never anything major, but enough to keep me away from the track.

my younger bro ran a 13.3 with simular mods to you in a r33 with a 2.0s 60 foot time.

If you can drive it hard and launch it well (his tyres were shit so theres no reason why you can better his 60 foot time), theres a good chance for a very low 13 pass. Put slicks on and launch it hard and a high 12 should be on the cards.

Edited by R34GTFOUR

I'd say mid 13's should be on the cards at least - From what i remember a few years back when i got a seat in that thing it was mighty quick and had me smiling for a while :happy: BTW, I'm your mate Steve's cousin if you remember.

I'm hoping to tap into the 13's with my car:

stock RB20

+ 3" split dump&front / high-flow cat / 3.5" cat-back

+ FMIC

+ bosch 040 pump

+ APexi power intake

+ remap (boost restrictor/speedcut removed + ignition timing advanced with new fuel map)

160kw atw before remap, was quoted a 10-15kw gain after remap & between 10-12 pound ATM - car running extremely well.

Cheers,

Steve.

years ago when my 32 had an rb25 with 190rwkw std rb25det unknown ks 3in turbo back, pwr intercooler,microtech ecu 11-14psi no difference. run between 13.2 to 13.4 all day on 225 street tyres 108mph i think.would just break into a 12 with m/t street slicks id say

got walbro myself. nice and quiet, and also reaches to the bottom of the tank, so can use the full tank of fuel, as oposed to 3/4 of it.

as soon as i find this damn boost leak, will take my car down to the quarter. expecting mid to high 13's....

at the moment replacing the front bushes, so won't be fixing the leak for at least a month or so. budget just does not allow it.

You wont need 230 at all.

I ran 12.9's @ 109mph all day long (lots of practice and i was very consistent back in the day)

And that was with 220rwkw, RB25 in a car over 1400kg (HR31 GTSR)

This was using 225 Simex tyres, nothing special, nothing thick.

R32 is lighter by a reasonable margin, it should be able to do it with 200rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...