Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, tried for ages to find a c spanner for my hks hypermax coilovers, seems no one stocks them or its just too damn hard... :D

So my question here is, HAS ANYBODY GOT ONE I CAN USE FOR THE WEEKEND... NEED THEM ASAP

My car is so close to going over pits, and this is stopping me!! :)

If so gimmie a call on 0404726323

Cheers

Guy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222566-c-spanner/
Share on other sites

Call R_DIRTY_3, Brad. He works with these everyday! He might have SOMETHING that resembles a C Spanner :(

I do!

I have 2 options for you. I have some new ones i can sell you, OR i can lend you a set. However, i do require a $50 to guarantee return....Not saying i dont trust you, but ive lost several sets in the past. $50 will be given back to you when the spanners come back :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222566-c-spanner/#findComment-3923370
Share on other sites

thanks alot guys, Brad?... i just sent you a message, but if you read this before... will they definatly fit my hks hypermax??

I'd prefer to buy them hey... but if you have none in stock then ill just borrow for now... either way, when can i pick it up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222566-c-spanner/#findComment-3924729
Share on other sites

nah they not that bad, lasted me a few goes....

only thing is, your knuckles cop a good beating when the spanner tip wears.. heh

Thats why you should buy/use decent quality ones. Your poor knuckles dont deserve that lol

The Tein C Spanners are probably the best on the market.

With a specially designed hooking part they can be used to adjust 70, 90 and 132mm spring seat/lock rings.

They also have a 12.7mm hole so if you really need to use a lot of force you can use astandard breaker bar.

And as the material is only 6mm thick, it will locate into lock rings, with less chance of slipping out, than others that are claimed stronger at 7 or even 8mm thick.

So there ya go. Lesson 1 in C Spanners :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222566-c-spanner/#findComment-3925527
Share on other sites

Big thanks to Brad... was going to borrow but figured ill need more than one use out of them especially for those times when the po po try to yellow my car... no sir i will raise it right now if you like...lol, so yeah, i thought id just buy em...

Thanks again!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222566-c-spanner/#findComment-3927146
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...