iz32

anyone?

i need to get mine replaced but dont know where to go.. has anyone had theirs done and can suggest/recommend somewhere to get it done?

otherwise its the bulb itself....?

my guess is the meter one.

mods: any chance you can sticky the pic? took me ages to find it myself.. cheers

yea i found out today from nissan it is a circuit breaker but they didnt know what for... cheers tho, now i do. unfortunately i got one from a wrecker today (from a working car and at a fraction of the cost of a new one) and it still trips... gotta be a short somewhere in the power window circuit...time to fault find!

where can you get a wide band sensor? my car came with the air/fuel gauge already fitted to a standard second sensor and just like you said the needle erratically jumps from rich to lean according to whats happening but doesnt really give a "reading" as such. its pretty useless when you watch it.

im getting a clicking sound from under the dash and my power windows dont work. it began when i started the car whilst at the very same time put both windows up... i assume there was a high current draw and something went click then windows stopped dead. i have swapped the elec window relay in the engine bay around with the others and its not that. The car starts and runs fine..... stereo, interior lighting, dash, lights, signals.....basically everything works all ok except for the clicking at regular intervals. when the click happens there is a current drain cos all the lights dim then its ok for a few seconds till it clicks again. after checking all the fuses i found the mirrors/wipers fuse was blown but i havent used either of the items for so long i dont know if it was pre existing. that was replaced and the wipers work fine but the clicking is still there. its not the black box in the door cos ive had/fixed that problem before I've traced the clicking sound down to this.... what is it and what does it do? it only has 2 pins but clicks like a relay. im yet to track one down and relace it....hopefully thats all that went wrong, but im curious to know what it is.

id prefer the cross @ 60hz gonna go with a type-r this time round but im a bit confused if i should stick with a sealed enclosure or go for a tuned port DnB is the taste btw.

unfortunately im in wa but would appreciate it if you could help out with some numbers for an enclosure once i choose a sub... 60hz being the sweet spot. btw....the slot port is 300 deep 300 high and 50 wide (giving it a 50mm gap at the back as the internal box depth is 350mm)

theres no fun in paying someone to do it i have used a few box designs all up, the pioneer eventually blew in a generic ported box and lastly the type-s gave up in a small sealed box, near on a cubic foot which all round i felt sounded the best but seemed to plateau at very high volume. in between the 2 above mentioned subs i used the TWS307D2 as bang for buck spec wise it looks a winner but after 3 enclosures i got rid of it cos i couldnt shake this mid-low bass emphasis it had which drowned out the sub bass. firstly i used a small sealed enclosure as per pioneers recommendations then a larger packed sealed enclosure and lastly a slot ported box i had made which is now a makeshift coffee table in the garage (internal measurements 300x350x350 + another 50x300x350 slot port) this gave me my sub bass but only at high volume and in hind sight i went a little too low on the tune for the box. there was hardly any bass response on low to moderate volume and it weighed a tonne. i've also listened to this sub in the prefabricated pioneer enclosure and didnt really like the sound, it was in a BA ute so that may have something to do with it. i want to steer away from the 600+ price bracket for the next sub as its stepping into the next level of audio where my front stage cant keep up, which will end up snowballing and next thing i know ive got a system worth more then the car, been there before. im no audiophile but like to know tricks of the trade... so from what ive read the enclosure is the weak spot. i can stick with my current setup then pick a sub, get a custom box tuned for my application and go easy on the gain...im of the school of thought on letting the amps do the work as far as tuning goes and try to make minimal changes at the head unit only to adjust sound quality between different bitrates

I keep blowing subs with my current setup as i've always been advised its best to over power your speakers for a cleaner sound. understandably its a fine line between clean power and too much power. now working with what i got, and sticking with the 300w rms range of subs to keep it near my splits volume capacity, is it better to overpower the sub with the gain backed off and match the amp/splits rms (like i have been) or vice versa? equipment i use: soundstream lil wonder 2x65 or 1x260 @ 4ohm pioneer splits 60w rms.... i think? jaycar response 2x150 or 1x500 @ 4ohm subs ive killed: pioneer 12" 150w rms alpine type-s 12" 300w rms im finding that with all the different bitrate music i download, my system can be fine for months with my gain tuned correctly for the lesser power sub, then suddenly some live recording with a low bitrate or poor recording sound, played loud, gives my amp a "what for" and pop goes the sub. cheers in advance for any advise....

Tie rods (i been referring to them as hicas arms) are cheap as. KYP sold me one for 33bux. piece of piss to change but you need a bearing puller to make it easy. i spent 2 days trying to get it off the outer end joint (wheel hub end) and the bearing puller did it in seconds. you also need to drop the rear section of your exhaust and its all there infront of you. then you need a wheel alignment. if you decide to do it yourself you can borrow my bearing puller cos i know first hand now how much of a pain in the arse it is.

I cant get the rear wheel alignment bars off the hub assembly. the bars that connect to the hicas. i have removed the pin and nut and wound the rods in, bashed it with a hammer from all different angle including moving the hub assembly up n down with a jack, removed the rod totally from the hicas even and i still cant get it of. also tried soaking it in inox and then again all the above... both sides just wont budge off the shaft. anyone got any tips?

all good mate

just with standard hydraulic hose and clamps? was told recently the pressure was too great and i would need pirtek to make up some high pressure fixings or something to hold the hose on.

Anyone have any tips on getting the alignment arms from the hicas off the wheel hub assembly?? i've tried everything i can, different angles, pryed, supported wheel hub at different heights and beat the bajeasus out of it to try and knock it off the damn thing. the good arm has been removed totally from the hicas and even then i still cant get that one off the ball joint thing...

could small shots of NOS be used in the lower RPM range to bring the turbo on earlier or perform a little better between 2500-5000rpm? just a general though and not knowing or experiencing nos setups at all Im thinking using standalone ECU spare outputs to control it but with the rpm range and how its to be used, im not too sure about. is it simply nos on/off via electro/mechanical switch or can you implement incremental spray increases/decrease to tie it in with rpm/vac pressure/afr..? im also thinking the tuning side would be a nightmare between the nos off - turbo on boost rpm range. anyways, its just some food for thought......

btw cheers for the contact dude, got looked after well. (posted this before but i think i got modded)

got the lock bar already. damn i regret not fitting it months ago... it got a bit confusing with the whole hydrolic lines bizzo... i was planning on just plugging the 2 lines at the back but i kept reading conflicting diy's on a few forums with having to remove the whole system from the front or looping the lines at the back (also there's no fun in paying someone to do it) so i put it on the back burner. An unpright curb was the culprit, pulled it back around enough to washed off speed but the rear wheel hit nice and square and came out ok. I removed most of the suspension and dropped the exh to have a good look at the diff, running gear and main structural areas of the subframe, measured it all up best i could and inspected all the welds and looks fine.

cheers but id guess they are different. ive had an isc lockbar for 3 months but i just been to slack to fit it!

left rear lower control arm and left hicas arm needed asap. can anyone help me out?? or suggest a wrecker that is resonable in price...?

i concur! i've been running 20psi constantly for the last 2 years and still going. its not daily driven but every weekend it sure gets a good run. as long as the tune is good the RB20 is good for it.

Right im ready to throw more dollars at the RB20 cos im now tired of the cars performance and need something to do for a few weeks but havent decided what to do... currently making just shy of 300rwhp with: stock rb20 hks2530 @1.3bar EMS gtr injectors w/bosch pump and all the usuals...intercooler, dump, zaust etc. ideas i have been toying with in no particular order: cams change plenum or play with intake (larger throttle body? AFM still attached and still using the rubber intake pipe) change dump (change from split to single or maybe ext gate too) play with my spare motor in some way...headwork or internals different turbo ...or something else? my biggest fear is going backwards instead of forwards with the performance so any input or suggestions would be appreciated. thanks.

here ya go dan....