iz32

yeah do it so i can finally get my membership show bag....

old news now but yeah the other 32 was me.... 3 ways are cool.

freeway run owned! was about the only good thing on that night. had heaps of good runs both north and south. the amount of people i saw over taking in complete stupidity on the outer city roads was rediculous! some people just dont think.

the original bearings had this blue colour! what made me sceptical was first rebuild they gave me all the old parts back..... second time around they accidently thru them out. in the end bearing noise is bearing noise and can only be caused by oil starvation from what i gather, the whole turbine theory and 3 fauly bearing packs theory is out the window now.. i just want to make sure all bases are covered this time around. will give the oil pump a crack over the weekend and see what i find.. is it a good idea to pull oil cooler, cooler lines and filter relocation lines off and go thru the lot?

well pressure wise it "seems" ok... if going by the gauge on the cluster is a good reference. sits on 4 most of the time. oil was flowing out of the drain line after 2x 10 second goes at cranking the engine over. can pressure drop during driving? im talking around the block driving no track work high rpm stuff. id like to look more into how the oil pump works and creates pressure up into the feed line if anyone can point me the right way to some pics or documents/manuals. thanks.

just had a thought.. could there be a difference in the oil feed line fitting as it was a hks turbo but they fitted a garrett bearing pack, i know garrett make hks but just wondering if there may be a difference in the volume of feed to the bearings.. ie diameter of the nipple. this is really causing me grief now and everyone is closing down for the holidays...

problem is i have had a new bearing pack twice in 4 weeks.... and the sound is starting to appear again after 1 week. definately not an oil feed problem, its a new line and i tested the bejesus out of it before connecting the oil drain up to the block a firing. anyways im not here to winge, just to find out if u can get shaft play on a new bearing pack after 1 week.... time for bearing pack number 3 i guess.

to my understanding when a bearing pack in a turbo fails you get shaft movement from the ball bearings breaking down which can cause the turbine/s to hit the housing wall giving you a whirring sound. can the bearing pack also "pack up" or basically clog up and also cause this sound without the turbine/s coming into contact with anything...? had 2 seperate stories from the turbo rebuilder and it just isnt adding up at the moment so i thought id ask for any experiences that other people have had. thanks Iz.

good news is i did it right first time around... bad news is i have identified the sound as the original sound i heard 5 weeks ago and the reason i had the turbo rebuilt.... unfortunately its not the turbo bearings making the sound as i originally thought......... $1200 later anyways such is life and i have a higher spec turbo now. maybe someone can enlighten me on some likely causes of this mysterious sound. imagine a bandsaw in the distance, thats what it sounds like. its not too loud, the sucking of the air is maybe twice as loud. it only happens when boost is coming on and then fades away when u take your foot off the throttle and there is no performance loss. its definately coming from the left side of the engine bay. and its definately not the sound of a failed exhaust gasket. thanks guys.

Im there for sure, arranged a pretty large crew to go aswell so its gonna be insane big ups the CHASE & STATUS..... BOH! found out earlier, nextlevel rekids had the last 60 tickets left and they all went in a couple of hours this morning. Officially SOLD OUT..... its definately gonna be a corker now !!

Gday all, finally I "officially" joined the sauwa club yesterday and am pretty keen to get involved and to find out what kind of activites you all get together for? car events, puplic social events, bbq events., xtreme sports.......etc hope to catch a few of ya soon at a meet.... cheers Iz

thats what i suspected.... would there be much damage? considering the turbo unit was dripping oil when i fitted it. hoping that theres some lube there. and that i only let it idle for 10 min with a 2min drive shifting gears at 2300rpm but pushed it slowly upto 3000rpm once then killed then ignition..... gonna pull the oil feed hose off and get a new one made up at enzed soon as they open its gotta be the only part i didnt go over before refitting, cos..... its a braded oil feed line...?!?

gday. has anyone experienced a blocked oil feed line to the turbo before? or a reason why no oil is getting to the turbo? maybe something on the block side blocking the oil feed? basically after the install i took it for an easy drive round the block. after it warmed up i brought it slowly upto 3000rpm where the turbo starts its spool and got a dry whining sound. i killed it an rolled into my drive. and notice smoke from the exh housing but it smelt alot like burning paint from the rebuild. NOTE: i turned the engine over 8 times at 5sec lengths without it firing before i started it for the first time and let it sit and idle for 10min after i fired it up. also has new oil and coolant. any ideas guys???

No dramas for me... they couldnt supply the rims i wanted in a reasonable time frame after i made my payment so they gave me an awesome discount on another set. rims came to perth exactly the day when they advised me they would, well packaged. i'd use them again.

just my experience to add, no answers here. my car seems to feel like it has more torque when im running higher boost. ie: having my controller set to 1.36bar as opposed to 1.05 bar, then whilst general street driving and not winding it out, it seems to pull harder even though im not hitting its max setting (hitting around 0.7 - 1.0 bar thru the gear changes for example) i'd be interested to know if this is caused by a fault like the wastegate actuator, as suggested, cos my turbo is in for a rebuild at the moment.

i read somewhere on these forums recently how to test if your clutch is buggered but cant find it now.. if you spin the fan by hand when the car is cold it should normally only spin freely for a half turn or something to that effect... can anyone confirm or correct me please? cheers

thanks guys... sounds pretty straight forward. now to get home and get this thing out. cef11e: which washers might they be?

Im removing my GT2510 off my RB20 and i've basically removed everything except the fluid plumbing, although i still have 2 nuts supporting the turbo onto the manifold. i have had a quick look at the oil and coolant connectors and would like some advise on how i should remove them before i just have a hack at it. 1) i am a little unsure whether to remove the coolant lines at the fittings on the turbo itself or should i simply cut the hoses and replace them later? (they wont pull off as the hoses are well stuck to the pipes) 2) the upper oil fitting looks well rusted, do i remove it at the turbo itself (which looks quite fiddly) or at the engine? 3) the oil return line looks quite straight forward by removing the 2 bolts on the under side of the turbo. is that correct? 4) should i drain both the oil and coolant from the engine before i begin removing any of these fittings? any tips or tricks on this will be greatly appreciated !!!! thanks Iz.

after 2 days of going thru these forums reading up ALL of the info on RB20 turbo options i think i finally get it. some background info... i currently have a much older style GT2510 (garrett badged with id plate reading: 6D 60201 GT2510-63T 446179-20) which has bearing sound but still makes 196rwkw. now i've thoroughly thought about all the turbo options discussed on these forums and have decided id like to go for a hksGT2530/garrettGT28RS sized turbo as im happy with the current power im making but want a little better power delivery that these newer styled (and fresher) turbos will hopefully provide. unfortunately my budget doesnt agree with simply buying a hks GT2530 and bolting it up so the GT28RS is my prefered option but wont just bolt up cos of the different exhaust flange. so my questions are..... can i get my current GT2510 rebuilt and refurbished to something similar to the GT2530 specs and still be affordable and reliable? or can i get the exhaust housing of my 2510 adapted to the GT28RS for a bolt up option? assuming the oil/water fittings on the GT28RS are also the same.

Hiro's... 18x8.5

cheers to the other responses, but this was the kind of generalised answer i was after, thanks warpspeed. sorry if i worded the thread incorrectly peeps

i already have one, just using it for a reference point to get an answer

hehe... proof is in the RB20... its still going with no bottom end knock or anything, still making the HP, still painting the under side of my car in shades of mobile1 .... (albeit im currently on the hunt for a new donk) as long as they are well oiled and fueled RB20's just keep on going........ tired motor BAH!

im just looking around at different RB20 turbo combos and have a question re power ratings manufacturers quote on turbos.. for example the HKS GT2510 unit says its good for 300hp now is that an approximate figure for an "efficient power" rating or a "maximum flow" power rating?

Werd! 196.5rwkw @ 1.36bar with dipstick jumping out oil spray action for the last 9 months... still going strong