Jump to content
SAU Community

S A F C set up question.

Devo

By Devo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Devo Rookie

Devo

Posted
Posted

Hi all, a quick question here re set up on an safc blue screen model, not the latest.

When setting up the sensor type, after entering hotwire, do I enter 4 (my sensor type no, r33 gtst,) in both the IN and OUT fields, as I found the instructions a little hard to follw at this point.

Any clarification here would be appreciated.

Cheers

Harry :P:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22311-s-a-f-c-set-up-question/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
WHITE R32 Grand Master

WHITE R32

Posted
Posted

i was also wondering this... what is the effects of having the wrong number in this field???? and also the screen after that where is goes to the sensor cal screen where i think its for 2 afms etc.... do u just leave that at 1 and 1 also?????

  • 2 weeks later...
Bo0sT_JuNkY Community Regular

Bo0sT_JuNkY

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by pushead

EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED TO KNOW!!!.. bumping this post.  

The Apexi manual shows GTST R33 = HW4  

So that means in the hotwire mode i enter in the IN field4 and the Out field 4 as well?

Thats right, It means Input from the AFM =4 Output to the ECU =4 .If you have a different AFM like a Z32 then it would be Input =3(just example number) Output =4 .So the safc converts the Z32 Afm to a Stock signal and the ecu doesnt notice the change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...