Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought my stagea S2 1998 RS4 S rb25neo about 8 months ago and need some help with sourcing some mod parts for it. Its stock as a rock apart from pod filter. Need more grunt, its hard going from a vl with rb25 conversion pumping out 250rwkw 2 a stagea with about 100 at all fours so i want 2 start with some good mods to make around 200 at all 4's.

computer-is there a plug in type computer for the rb25 neo (best value for money?)

Front mount kits-

boost controller-

cat back system-

front pipe-i have one off a r33 which i used 4 my vl- Does this fit? (x-force)

injectors- (sard or nismo?)

Suspension- what fits the series 2? (back and front) has nismo short springs so i want to use them just need shocks?

Nismo series 2 bodykit-

Volk racing te37 rims-18 or 19 inch

Any other mods that i need to do 2 make around 200kw at all 4's

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223154-stagea-mods/
Share on other sites

See Rob at Sabbadin Automotive 9558 4422

I bout mine with only a cat back exhaust since then I did the mods in 2 stages.

Trust Front mount (made for an R33)

Front / dump pipe (cut down R33 one)

Cat

R34 Apexi PFC

Blitz ID3 Boost controller

The above should get you around 200ish rwkw

Then I put on a HKS GTRS which was a direct bolt on for an R33 but needed slight mods to fit the stagea

Bosch 600cc injectors

Walbro Fuel pump, (bosch pump will not fit in the standard pump housing)

Z32 AFM

The clutch is still hanging on and it is pumping out 265 rwkw.

The process was all pretty easy apart from the tuning as Rob seems to think the FPR is on the way out for a couple of reasons.

If you need any more info just ask

Cheers

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223154-stagea-mods/#findComment-3931213
Share on other sites

im in the same boat, just got my 98 s stock as a rock besides some suspension work and want to try for some more ponies. i only wana spend bout 3 to 4 gs i duno what sturb25s budget is but do you think i should go for those first few mods you done fmic, exhaust and boost controller or wait for more cash.

sorry to sturb25 if i sound like im takn over youre thread but i thought well kill 2 birds with one stone cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223154-stagea-mods/#findComment-3932825
Share on other sites

See Rob at Sabbadin Automotive 9558 4422

I bout mine with only a cat back exhaust since then I did the mods in 2 stages.

Trust Front mount (made for an R33)

Front / dump pipe (cut down R33 one)

Cat

R34 Apexi PFC

Blitz ID3 Boost controller

The above should get you around 200ish rwkw

Then I put on a HKS GTRS which was a direct bolt on for an R33 but needed slight mods to fit the stagea

Bosch 600cc injectors

Walbro Fuel pump, (bosch pump will not fit in the standard pump housing)

Z32 AFM

The clutch is still hanging on and it is pumping out 265 rwkw.

The process was all pretty easy apart from the tuning as Rob seems to think the FPR is on the way out for a couple of reasons.

If you need any more info just ask

Cheers

Dave

thanks for the advice i was thinking of using a r34 Apexi PFC. easy to tune ive heard. im going 2 slowly do my mods cause i want to do it properly and cash is the problem. What does ur car go like, what year is it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223154-stagea-mods/#findComment-3933647
Share on other sites

im in the same boat, just got my 98 s stock as a rock besides some suspension work and want to try for some more ponies. i only wana spend bout 3 to 4 gs i duno what sturb25s budget is but do you think i should go for those first few mods you done fmic, exhaust and boost controller or wait for more cash.

sorry to sturb25 if i sound like im takn over youre thread but i thought well kill 2 birds with one stone cheers

Dont be sorry man, stagea's are sick cars. i love em. This is my personal opion but i would by ur basic mods first ie: FMIC, Full Exhaust, Pod filter and then save for a decent computer cause ur computer is the heart of ur car and injectors and decent boost controller and then ull be set. Maybe a clutch would be a good idea 2 cause standard clutches arent much chop. To give u any indication on price look up just jap. heres the web address

http://www.justjap.com/

Happy hunting

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223154-stagea-mods/#findComment-3933674
Share on other sites

Dont be sorry man, stagea's are sick cars. i love em. This is my personal opion but i would by ur basic mods first ie: FMIC, Full Exhaust, Pod filter and then save for a decent computer cause ur computer is the heart of ur car and injectors and decent boost controller and then ull be set. Maybe a clutch would be a good idea 2 cause standard clutches arent much chop. To give u any indication on price look up just jap. heres the web address

http://www.justjap.com/

Happy hunting

yeah thats what i thought, cheers mate.

and yeah my clutch is crap cant even get a chirpy out of it off the line, but otherwise its still flys for a stocky :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223154-stagea-mods/#findComment-3936023
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...